Bunk trailer setup

[SC204]

I have my 20cc on a roller trailer right now. The trailer is getting rusty and I don't want to be around when things need repairing. I rebuilt my old trailer to go with bunks. A few questions. IS there anything special as to where the bunks should be placed on the hull bottom? What wood is used for the bunks here in the NE? Any help would be appreciated.

[JohnC]

If the bunks are a little wider than the hull steps they will cause the hull to self-center when you pull it onto the trailer. The height of the skids at the front and back is important also. You want it high enough that the keel does not drag along the trailer frame when loading/unloading but low enough to float on and load easily. The front will be a little higher than the back because the dead-rise at the bow is more than at the stern. I have one (maybe 2, cant remember) keel roller near the back to get the bow pointed uphill before the hull makes contact with the skids, that helps.
If you have a trailer shop near you it may be good to let them do it or you could put it together and pay them a little to give it a once over before you put the boat on. Even then I would bring some tools to the ramp at a time when it isn't too busy. Put the boat on and off a few times and make any adjust needed. I did that with mine and it was well worth it. I just drive the boat up to the winch mast and tighten it up. My winch strap has never been unwound more than about 6 inches.
If you are in salt water use as much stainless and aluminum parts as you can. The extra $$ is an illusion! Stuff that doesn't rust is actually cheaper in the long run.

[wattaway2]

With my old 20sf trailer I put in a extra set of bunks not so much for suport but to act as a guide the outside set extended out further than the inside kinda forming a V to help guide the boat . Originally the distance from the roller and the bunks was enough that I could stick the bow between them if a running tide made it interesting to stick it on the trailer. It was a lot quicker to do it alone at a very busy ramp down here

[Mikem8560]

I just set up a used bunk trailer for my 20sf, the rear bunk were a bit wider then the then the steps at the rear but the front was right on the steps

later I can measure the bunk length high and width front and back ..


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[Dilligaf]

is that a hole next to your bow eye? anchor drain?

[Mikem8560]

Originally Posted by Dilligaf

is that a hole next to your bow eye? anchor drain?

yes there is

[BigLew]

White Oak on edge for the bunks. Pretty much the best thing after teak($$$$$). Be sure to include synthetic carpet (Astro-Turf) and Teflon skid strips. Plenty of ventilation so they can dry out between dunking's.

[SC204]

Thanks for all the replies. I went to a local sawmill and asked about having some bunks custom cut(4x10) They said either red oak or pine. He said the red oak would rot quicker which I found odd. Did not ask about white oak(prob expensive) I have also heard Hemlock is good to use. I plan on borrowing boat stands to make this happen and do it on land so I can cut the bunk angle to match the hull where the bunks will sit. Don't want to have to fuss with it later.

[Mikem8560]

Is this on an aluminum trailer? I replaced the ruster steel cradle i beams on my boat lift with aluminum beams. So light. The wood bunks made it float i had to weight it down

[BigLew]

I need to apologize to everyone regarding my comment that 4 by is overkill. I was looking at all of the pictures of trailer bunks posted in this thread. (each used timbers on edge.)

Four by tens on face makes sense up to a point. The same could be accomplished using two by PT product backed by two by, also PT. Whether or not PT is acceptable in this application is probably a question of state regulation. I believe the point of excessive buoyancy is a real consideration.

Again, my apologies to anyone who took offense at my comment or its tone. I meant no offense.