Re-powering 1972 SeaCraft 23'...F300?

[SeaCraft1972]

I'd like to get some opinions, right now I have a 1972 SeaCraft 23' with a Armstrong bracket-30 inch setback running a 2001 Yamaha Salt Water Series 250 h.p.
I'm looking into re-powering with a Yamaha F300 or an E-tec 300. I haven't looked into any other possibilities because I thought the above two would be the best options. I am open to hearing any suggestions. And if anyone has a F300 or E-tec 300 please let me know what kind of performance you're getting and whether or not you're happy with the engine overall. Thank You.

[Terry England]

You might be "mess'in with success" swap'in that motor out until you put a rod through the block - which could be a long time. For $16,000 you can find one that's quieter and gets another 1/2 mile to the gallon but you have to get most of them wrenched on every 100 hours (once a year) at the rate of $5-600.00 (*) and your going to put some more weight on the transom. The V-6 two stroke Yamahas are pretty bullet-proof. You hear about a stator or a module going out once in a while but mainly they just "keep on truck'in". You have the dang Toyota Camary of outboard motors, be careful 'Jones'in for a Lamborghini that you get to maintain.

(*) A similar scheduled maintenance program is usually required during the Engine Manufacturer's Warranty Period. The various outboard manufacturers have different required service intervals which must be met and the work preformed by a factory authorized dealer for that engine manufacturer, if you expect to have recourse in the event of a Mechanical failure. Many purchasers of Outboard motors do not consider or calculate the cost of required service intervals into the total cost of operation. If you don't care about the Manufacturer's warranty or are beyond the warranty period than the service interval and person whom preforms the service work is strictly up to the boat owner. OR if you live up in the woods and you're kinda' big and grouchy and nobody around the area wants to work on your motor, then you'll just have to service it yourself - and you better have one of them chain drive Zukes.

[kmoose]

Terry is right on with keeping the one you have unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket that OX 66 will run like the energizer bunny. I even know a guy that ran his out of oil, locked it up, and then got home and freed it with a breaker bar. Still running from last I hear.

If you do come over to the dark side and go with the 4 stoke, don't listen to the every 100 hour nonsense. The motors are no different than the car in your driveway.... Change the oil every 100 hours and forget them. I have one with 10 years of hard azz, offshore running and am approaching 1800 hours. No valve adjustments, fuel injector cleaning, or any other "recommended" BS. The BRP gang would like you to think different but they're just jealous cause they can't run the cheap gas.

[DonV]

Terry and Ken are right. That's the same reason I'm still running my 2003 EFI Merc. It's been very dependable and for the small amount of time I use the boat it makes no $$$$ sense to hang a new $20,000 engine on the back. Simple math, $20k divided by $5 gal for gas = 4000 gal. You can go a long way on 4000 gallons or until your engine dies. However if you use the boat A LOT and want to improve your fuel efficiency, you may want to trade while your trade value is still good.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by kmoose

. . . The BRP gang would like you to think different but they're just jealous cause they can't run the cheap gas.

Although some of the supercharged Verado's require higher octane fuel, the FACTORY RECOMMENDED fuel for all E-TEC's, except for the Military versions designed to run on JP-5, is 87 octane! And all the big block motors have knock sensors that will put engine into 1200 rpm limp home mode if you DO happen to get a load of bad gas, such as phase separated E-10 that's lost octane because water absorbed all the ethanol!

I concur with Terry and the others regarding repowering, as I went through the same thought process when I repowered in 2006. Although my overall average gas mileage went from 2.8 to 4.4 mpg by upgrading from 1975 technology, I could still buy many years worth of gas for the $12K or so it cost me to repower! The only way to really justify it is the clean quiet reliable operation of the new motor! And I have to admit that the dozen or so nice trips I've made with the new motor probably would not have happened either!

[SeaCraft1972]

Thank you for the suggestions everyone!

I have a question for those of you who have a bracket: What size shaft is your outboard 25 or 30?

For some reason the previous owner set the boat up with a 30 inch shaft outboard on a hydraulic jack plate, on the Armstrong bracket with 30 inch setback.

It just doesn't seem right to me.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

[DonV]

I think the previous owner could have added more crap to the rear of the boat if he really wanted. I've seen four or five SeaCrafts that were changed from twins to a single 30" shaft engine, including my brother from twin 140 loopers to a single 250 Merc and in every case the owner was very, very happy with the performance. Some were hung on the original transom built up to 30" and Moose's case with the manual jack plate. For a diver or someone who needs to use a ladder to climb in and out of the boat that's a real nice set up!

[Terry England]

SeaCraft1972,
Don't be in "fuel tank denial". Beg borrow or steal a 6 or 12 gallon clean plastic gas tank, put fresh fuel in it and hook it to your OX-66 with a new fuel line a bulb. Run the engine and see if things straighten out. At least you will have isolated the problem of being with the engine or the fuel tank, lines, filter housing, etc. IIf you put a new engine on the boat you'll probably want to put a new tank in it anyway so you don't run a big slug of water through it. Water in the fuel is not covered by any engine warranties that I'm aware of.

[Old'sCool]

Same here...2000 250 OX66, unknown hours. I'll keep going until it dies. Sent the injectors out this year for cleaning/flushing/calibrating. Made a world of difference for the ~ $200 cost.

[jongolds]

I'm thrilled with my 300hp Etec. I'm assuming you are asking about replacing the Yamaha because you are having trouble with it. If not, I would agree with the other posts. Don't replace a working motor. That said, if you're looking for a replacement the 300hp Etec has been great to me. I can hit 50 mph in my Tsunami and used to surpass it before adding my hardtop. I cruise around 27 mph and get between 2 and 2.5 mpg according to the Garmin. I would expect to do much better with a CC. I've got a lot of weight in the Tsunami with two helm seat boxes and a deep full beam storage bench across the transom. The motor is also on a Hermco bracket.