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[Lordwrench]

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[Bushwacker]

Big outboards didn't always have power trim! Any older motor without power trim should have a specially made pin just like you're looking for. My 1975 115 Evinrude had one with a pivoting locking tab on one end with a spring and 90 degree bend on other end. You'd just rotate the bent end to point up, push in and the tab would unlock so you could pull the pin, move to another hole and rotate bent end down and push in against spring to lock in place.

The pin only limited how far the motor would drop down. I don't remember it having a feature to lock the motor down, but it did have a lever on side of bracket you could move before you tilted motor up that would hold motor up after you manually tilted it. You had to move the lever down to tilt motor back down and that may have automatically locked it down.

I had a 1966 100 hp Evinrude with a similar pin that had a lever to engage the locking feature to prevent motor from popping up in reverse but I never used it. The motor was heavy enough and I never used reverse hard enough to need the locking feature.

[Terry England]

Some of the old outboard hydro and runabout racers would pin them as the "Forward Stop" and then run a couple of bungees around the leg so they would flop around unless they hit something (like another hyro that flipped). This of course was back before Mercury's were White, back when they were Green and had really bad coils and no neutral or reverse. However, if you could get the coils to "catch", the Hurricanes would "yodel".

[Old Goat]

Something like this is what you are looking for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-JOHNSON...545dea&vxp=mtr

[FishStretcher]

When the motor on my 370 lb yamaha F100 packed up, I unscrewed the relief valve a bit with a standard screwdriver, let it down, and went fishing. Then did the same to trim it up at the boat ramp. So it stayed locked down at sea. Maybe there is a similar valve on your OB?

It is heavy to tilt up and down and when it goes over center, it gets exciting- you could pinch a finger badly if you weren't looking.

Oh yeah. Nothing beats Kroil for loosening up parts.

[workinpr0gress]

The 60deg JohnyRudes also have a series of recirc check valves in the plastic manifold and their intake face of the block, and similar ones on the main journals for that matter. It can really run like crap down low if the intake/carb ones are sticky. I would definitely run it easy and let everything come up to temp and let everything get a nice bath of some decarb concoction while expanding and contracting before spinning it up. I prefer to use regular twc-3 waking up something from a long hibernation , none of the blended or the full synthetic oil. That's just my .02. Good luck

Btw, does the trim motor run at all, relays click?

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Lordwrench

This motor is 1994 johnson 175, very good motor but I havent been able to work it out yet, only woke her up on the hose at idle.The engine mount brackets have graduated holes for it to be pinned in different angles. After a year plus of sitting, she deserves to flex and scream, I'm putting her in the water tomorrow regardless, thanks all for the info:-)

B

She will have a limit shaft.
Run her low and slow. You need to bring her back to life.
Double oil. Patience please.

Cheers,
Smoker

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by gofastsandman

Run her low and slow. You need to bring her back to life.
Double oil. Patience please.

Cheers,
Smoker

While your at it I would throw in a new water pump impeller and some new t-stats. Don't want no cooling issues while you are breaking her in....

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Lordwrench

There's no pin or shaft in it, sounds like they came with one originally. I ordered the tool for the trim cylinder gland, but it's already been destroyed by previous owners. It will be a fun challenge.Trying to balance investment of cash with greater investments of ingenuity and b, s & t's.

Initial fueling will be today, oil will be doubled according to Sandys wishes . Techron, Quickkleen already in.I don't know yet if the tank is that empty or the gauge doesn't work A thorough de-carbing also being set up for next few days.Maybe if I get her in this afternoon, I'll do it tonight so I can blow it out on the water tomorrow. One cylinder is ~95 psi on compression. Possibly F'd, possibly a stuck ring, as I know this boat wasn't cared for properly by PO.

Thanks again all

B

What are all of your compression numbers

They made about 12 models. Some GTs which may have 120-130 and many came the factory with 90.

Run her on a pony tank and decarb at fast idle 1500 15 mins sit for 15 repeat repeat.
Call the FD first. Seriously.Yes, sometimes I can be serious. Really, I can.

[Fr. Frank]

Sandy's right!!!! Normal compression for a "standard" 90 degree Looper 175 should be 90-95 psi through 1994.
Early 60* Ficht motors were 105-115 psi, according to my SELOC manual.