Cap separation

[plusone876]

First of all, I have a 1971 20' SF that I recently put a 2015 150 etec on the back. Great performance so far. I have notice that the cables are really stiff and am going to have them serviced under warranty.

I was washing my boat the other day and noticed some flexing in the hull in the aft portions of the port and starboard sides. I looked under the rub rail and it looks like the cap is starting to separate from the hull. I do not know much about boat building, structure, etc. so I have several questions. How big of an issue is this? Could continued use damage the stringers, liner, etc. by letting water in? What is the best method to fix this? How much would you expect something like this to cost if the work was hired out? Thanks ahead for the responses. Currently, frustrated!

[billythekid]

rub rail needs to be pulled and cap and liner need to be reattached. the original aluminum rivets the boat was fasten together with finally gave way.

[Bushwacker]

I'd insist on the premium BRP cables if you don't already have them as that might make a difference. My cables are 6' longer than normal because of the way they're rigged thru the flotation tub and up thru swim platform, but they work fine. Also check out the E-TEC Owners Forum if you haven't already seen it . . . there's a wealth of info available there, much like CSC!

What shape is your transom in! Any cracks coming out of corners of cutout or deflection if you step on lower unit? Is your inner liner original or has the boat been "restored" where someone removed much of the inner liner and the torsional stiffness it adds to the hull? My boat had a wood backing strip on the inside of the hull/deck joint to provide something for the tapping screws to bite into. Eventually the wood will get soft, and the threads on those tapping screws are so sharp that they cut fiberglass and don't hold well. Your best bet is probably to replace them with machine screws and nuts & washers on the inside.

[plusone876]

The boat had a new deck, new transom, bracket, etc. installed in 2005. There is no cracking anywhere except a line where the floor meets the transom. I do not think this is structural because the transom is solid. Will continued use of the boat in this shape be detrimental to the boat? I'm assuming it would. Any idea on how big of a project this would be and cost?

thanks,

[shine]

can you post some pictures of the cracks? Pictures of how it was rebuilt would be helpful too.

The cap getting loose will certainly allow more hull flex, not good, should be fixed before you use it offshore (or anywhere it will flex)

Joel

[plusone876]

Attached are photos of the transom/floor crack, cap separation, and only area of cracking on the outside of the hull.

[plusone876]

Cap separation

[shine]

major loss in stiffness by eliminating the boxes. The cracks at the bottom of the transom/deck and the one on the side show that the transom is flexing the rest of the boat. so the transom is not flexing, but it is transferring forces to the rest of the hull in concentrated area that are too far spread apart.

I don't like to be critical but that is just an awful design. The starboard thing is not helping in any way structurally. You cant cantilever an outboard on a bracket/lift without something more significant back there. Thickness of the transom is only one part of it.

You really need to add some knees or boxes or both.

[Islandtrader]

Originally Posted by shine

I don't like to be critical but that is just an awful design. The starboard thing is not helping in any way structurally. You cant cantilever an outboard on a bracket/lift without something more significant back there. Thickness of the transom is only one part of it.

You really need to add some knees or boxes or both.

That was my thought also...That whole back area should of been a built in, and tabbed in to the floor and sides...that way creating a stronger "box"

This is something that's not a catastrophe...but should be addressed.

[kmoose]

I my opinion it is a tragic mess and needs to be completely reworked. I've seen better laid out transom support on a sailboat.

Sorry, I get a little worked up when I see what some folks get trusting what the last guy did it right.