Post pics of your bunk trailers

[Basketcase]

Hey guys. On my new to me 20, I need to set up a different trailer than the one I got with the boat. I have a nice galvanized roller trailer but the roller parts need some love. I like the support bunks give to a boat, so I think I want to convert it to bunks. I have rollers on my aquasport, and its nice, but I think I want bunks this time. I did a search and maybe I missed all the good stuff, but I just wanted to see how people are supporting these boats, and where the contact points are. The one thing I like about the trailer the boat is on is how low it sits. That will be nice for driving as well as launching. Thanks!

[Vezo, Part II]

Owens and Sons build the aluminum frames the width of the outer most panel, but up against the first chine, and then the wooden bunks get through bolted into the aluminum I-beams. This guides you on centered, and locks the hull from wanting to slide left or right aft. The rest is up to you, meaning a V-block for the forward keel to rest. Transom supported by rear of bunks, longer as a step up into the boat, but not shorter. Flush with transom Should not effect trim tabs. Then bow roller located just above bow eye, hoping if you ever get rear ended she will not end up in the truck bed.

Adapting a trailer not set to width, 57”?, will require gavalanized brackets and Stainless hardware inside the actual frame. Capiche? Pics to follow. Custom would be beveling tops of bunks to degree of outer panel of hull prior to carpeting. Hope this helps. My brother just got an ‘18 Owens and Sons for about $2800, St. Pete Fla. Where are you located? I could probably transport it up the Eastern seaboard and visit family up to Cape Cod, cheaper than shipping???

Vezo, Part II

[uncleboo]

Here's mine.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1529415627

[Basketcase]

That looks great, uncleboo. So you have what looks like 2 bunks about 5' on the outside, and 2 around 4 feet on the inside but farther forward. Do I see it right?

[Vezo, Part II]

Let’s try this Basket. This is a Quick Load Aluminum I-beam which is too narrow with main bunks attached to topside of beams (strongest and and distributes weight on the beams rather than the cross members).forwards of axles looking back. All four chines run parallel with bunks (straight). Better pic from rear next.

[Vezo, Part II]

This pic from rear shows transom even with bunk ends, but if you notice she is resting on second chine, and would rather have bunks spread another 1.5 to 2” per side, locking the hull inside the beams and lowering the boat.

[uncleboo]

Originally Posted by Basketcase

That looks great, uncleboo. So you have what looks like 2 bunks about 5' on the outside, and 2 around 4 feet on the inside but farther forward. Do I see it right?

The rear bunks are 8' long and are adjusted such that the outer steps rest just inside of the bunk locking it in place. The forward bunks are inside of the innermost steps close together but angled outward just a tad at the rear to center the boat up better and also to keep the keel from hitting the crossmember when loading. Works great.

[afterhours]

Hi Basketcase,

Mine is a 23, but principles are the same. I originally had my rear bunks set so they were just inboard of the 2nd chine resting on the middle panel. While apparently this is the best structurally, I found it did not center as well. Also, the further out you go, less of the bunk actually contacts the hull unless the bunk has alot of flex. See pic 1

My current setup has the back bunks just outside the most inboard chine, again resting on the 2nd hull panel. I think the structural support is almost as good and the boat always centers itself perfectly. I do have forward bunks that guide the bow into the center of the trailer. See pic 2

The only thing I would do different is change the cross member supporting the front of the forward bunk. Right now it is straight across. I would go for one that has a dip in the center so my bow could rest lower. See pic 3

My rear bunks are beveled and are set on end for strength as they carry most of the weight. The front bunks rest flat against the hull as their primary purpose is to guide the boat on the trailer. The carpet is covered with Teflon where it contacts the hull. This helps launching and retrieving when you can't quite get the boat to float off without a little shove.

[Basketcase]

Originally Posted by VancouverPotter23

Hi Basketcase,

Mine is a 23, but principles are the same. I originally had my rear bunks set so they were just inboard of the 2nd chine resting on the middle panel. While apparently this is the best structurally, I found it did not center as well. Also, the further out you go, less of the bunk actually contacts the hull unless the bunk has alot of flex. See pic 1

My current setup has the back bunks just outside the most inboard chine, again resting on the 2nd hull panel. I think the structural support is almost as good and the boat always centers itself perfectly. I do have forward bunks that guide the bow into the center of the trailer. See pic 2

The only thing I would do different is change the cross member supporting the front of the forward bunk. Right now it is straight across. I would go for one that has a dip in the center so my bow could rest lower. See pic 3

My rear bunks are beveled and are set on end for strength as they carry most of the weight. The front bunks rest flat against the hull as their primary purpose is to guide the boat on the trailer. The carpet is covered with Teflon where it contacts the hull. This helps launching and retrieving when you can't quite get the boat to float off without a little shove.

I was trying to do this same thing, but was having trouble fitting between the fenders. Now I see I was trying to go too low. Do you find you have to back in very far to launch/retrieve?

[afterhours]

I was trying to do this same thing, but was having trouble fitting between the fenders. Now I see I was trying to go too low. Do you find you have to back in very far to launch/retrieve?
__________________
1971 Potter built center console.

I launch on both shallow and steep ramps. I have a very short draw bar which works in my favour in tight situations but a longer one would definitely be better for launching. See pic.

I back down the ramp until my rear tires on the truck are just touching the water, remove the safety chain and winch strap and give it a little shove and she just floats off. If the forward cross-member had a dip in it, I could lower the bow a bit and I think it would just float off without a shove. I don't like dipping my truck's brakes in the salt water because I generally don't rinse the truck and trailer until I get home.

For retrieval, I don't back down quite as far so I can see a bit of the front bunks and walk the boat along the dock onto the trailer. If there is no dock, I usually have someone in the boat to keep the stern straight. Once I get the bow between the front bunks, it centers perfectly on the rear bunks. I have to winch it the last foot or so. I have never tried driving the boat on or off the trailer but it comes off so easy it is not worth the bother.

Once I pull the trailer up onto the flat, I have to winch it a few more inches because of the sharp rake of the bow. Apparently if I had a double bow roller (one above the eye and one below the eye) on a pivot, this wouldn't be necessary or the distance would be minimal.

The trailer is a Venture 6000T with electric-hydraulic disc brakes. It comes standard with torsion axles and sealed hubs. The carpeted bunks have Teflon where the boat touches the bunks, which I think helps tremendously, especially on the retrieve because they are wet. Those pvc guide-on posts also help.