Stainless rub rail

Briguy · #1 05-10-2005, 03:58 PM

Does anyone have experience with the stainless rub rails? My boat is being repainted and now would be the time to change it out. I got a quote from my fiberglass guy for a complete polished stanless insert rubrail for roughly $300.00. Is this a good price? How do they hold up to pilings? Are they easy enough to repair?

Any info would be great.

Capt Chuck · #2 05-10-2005, 04:38 PM

Capt Brian

I think I paid $350 for mine from Barbour Plastics. 2" rub rail with 3/4" stainless insert. It comes in 20' sections and three sections are needed to go all the way around (full transom) If your were to damage a piece , you just replace a section [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

warthog5 · #3 05-10-2005, 09:56 PM

Chuck That's the hollow back stainless. Right? Not the "D" shaped solid stainless.

Briguy · #4 05-10-2005, 11:48 PM

There is hollow and solid. That seems like something I should know about! Tell me more.

Capt Chuck · #5 05-11-2005, 12:01 AM

Quote:

That's the hollow back stainless. Right? Not the "D" shaped solid stainless.

yes, I used the hollow type.

IMO: The solid is not too flexible and cost over rides any pros. Looks are pretty much the same. I would recommend the solid stainless rail if it was mounted on a vessel without the black rubber backing, like the big sport fishing machines [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Scott · #6 05-11-2005, 06:52 AM

Quote:

yes, I used the hollow type.

IMO: The solid is not too flexible and cost over rides any pros. Looks are pretty much the same. I would recommend the solid stainless rail if it was mounted on a vessel without the black rubber backing, like the big sport fishing machines [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

FYI
Chuck can confirm this with what he used BUT Even though it says "hollow" the black rub rail (backing) is typically shaped to fit the hollowed back of the Stainless... so there is no void between the stainless and the plastic (wont get crushed).

warthog5 · #7 05-11-2005, 10:09 AM

I used the solid on a little boat that I built. I didn't want a splice, so I ordered 2 of them 16ft long. The shipping is a killer! It's truck freight. The 2 pieces came sandwiched between 2- 1X3's. The cost was $70ea + $50ea shipping, for a total of $240. 1in wideX 16ft long.

paulfurnari · #8 05-11-2005, 06:39 PM

I went with the 2" black rigid rub rail with the 1" stainless insert from Barbour. I think the rubrail only accepts the hollow stainless. As a unit it is extremely solid. It's a good idea to have help when installing because the length of the pieces makes it awkward to handle when heating and forming the radius corners with the rigid plastic.- PF

SEAFARI · #9 05-11-2005, 09:41 PM

PF is correct on the extra help, I ordered the 1090-R
directly from Barbour. The 1" stainless insert is very
difficult to work with, especially the stern corners
with the upward angle. We had to make a jig to get
the bends right. The end caps are made by Taco.

Fishjack · #10 05-11-2005, 01:55 PM

Capt Chuck -
Did you purchase the rub-rail direct from Barbour Plastics or a retailer? I went to the Barbour website and submitted a request for a catalog. Do you have (or is there) a part number for the railing.
Thanks
FJ