Coosa

[Scott]

So who has used it ?? what did ya think about it and or hows it working out??

Just got a couple samples ... Very interesting !!

[Bryan A.]

Haven't used it yet but I am also interested. Where did you get the samples?

[jorgeinmiami]

What a coosa?

[Scott]

What a coosa?

Jorge … you may have figured it out already but Here’s Coosa …..

It’s a composite core material that is suppose to be ultra tough

[Scott]

Bryan ... I emailed them one night and the next morning had a reply and a sample was on its way ( I didn't even specifically ask for one). I emailed them back and they sent me more info in with the sample package. Very responsive.

ob1 thanks for the info....

I did wish that they had comparison numbers agains plywood ... I did not see or get anything like that. I'm also curious as to how this stuff handles self tapping screws. Its very light (Bluewater 26) and curious if they would strip.

[ob1jeeper]

Scott,
Here's a link for plywood design spec's, which should give you all the info you could want for comparison. I had the Comparison stuff saved on my old PC, until it died

Best of my memory was that tensile, shear, modulus, and fastener holding strength the Coosa 20 either very closely meets or in many cases exceeds that of ply's., and the blue-26 was better in ALL catagories... But don't quote or hold me to that .

Download yourself a copy of Y510 (free with use of adobe acrobat), then read away...

[ob1jeeper]

Scott,
I used coosa 20 for my wet/rotted transom replacement. From the data I received from the folks @ coosa composites (see link), it has same or better strength as marine ply, at about 1/2 the weight.

http://www.coosacomposites.com/

The local store, where I purchased mine, also gave me a scrap of approx. 18" square to play with, so I took it home and fabbed up a couple different shapes (knee, over-lapping, & layering) to give it a whirl, before deciding to go with it.

From my exerience I know it works easy. Requires no special tools (it cuts WAY fast with a die grinder & 4" dia., thin wheel), and I liked the lighter weight, because I could handle lifting the sandwiched core into place easily by myself. Besides, my project was porky enough in the tail end, and I liked the benefit of loosing approx 50 #'s of non-essential weight.

The only down-side I can recall, was that at the time I did mine (about a year ago) local pricing was approx 1.5 - 2 times more than marine ply, but in the overall scheme of things, was not the major cost factor in the transom repair anyway.

Have ZERO complaints with it's performance to date.

Good Luck

PS: I also liked the moisture absorption #'s they claimed, for what they say is fiberglass reinforced PVC foam.

You'll find differing densities available. I ended up with the 20#, as it was "in-store" available, and has worked out just fine.

[stoney]

I used the Coosa Bluewater on my 23SF transom last year. Very easy to work with. It shapes nicely with the router. It does dull the saw blades. It is lighter and stronger than plywood, but more expensive. I used the boat all summer and there are no indications in the paint. I shaped the board so there is no aluminum trim required around the motor well. I would recommend it highly.

[Ed]

Regal uses COOSA in the transoms on some of their boats.

[Scott]

Thanks guys !!

CJR $2200 ...YIKES !!!

Stoney ... I forgot you used that in the transom ... the 200 is hanging off that transom ..right ?