Brass scupper tube install

bigeasy1 · #1 02-24-2009, 05:50 PM

Didn't want to hijack the other thread,but I'm getting ready to install new brass scupper tubes into my Tsunami,and have a question.

I replaced both of the wood blocks,and am trying to decide whether I should place the tubes into the blocks with 3M 5200,or thicken up some epoxy resin,and bed them in with that?
I have sealed the holes with epoxy resin so now its just a matter of installing the tubes.

Any recommendations?

McGillicuddy · #2 02-25-2009, 02:51 AM

John123,

I suppose it's been done a number of ways but since you've already replaced the blocks and sealed the scuppers sleeves with epoxy you may as well use 5200 to bed them and seal them. I think the flexibility of that adhesive will be more forgiving, adhere to the brass and sleeve better, and provide a better seal over time than epoxy.

Good luck.

bigeasy1 · #3 02-25-2009, 09:20 AM

McGillicuddy,
Thanks,I was leaning towards the 5200.
What I should have done,when i had the entire rear cap,deck,and transom out(it's an I/O)was to run the drains out the transom.
It still eats away at me that I didn't,but now,everything is finished,and back together,and there's is no way I'm going to attempt that.
I'll leave it stipulated in my will,that My children can not sell it,and that they have to change the scuppers out the transom.
That should keep em busy for a while.

McGillicuddy · #4 02-25-2009, 07:06 PM

I think Bushwacker had overdrilled his holes and blocks for the purpose of both rebuilding the wood blocks with GitRot and then re-drilled the 1 inch holes - effectively making an epoxy sleeve to place the brass in. That way if the brass ever fails again, the deck and hull are are still sealed from water intrusion through the wood block by the epoxy tube that connects them.

Kind of made me wonder why not forgo the the brass sleeve all together and just make a bigger f-glas and epoxy tube?

Great idea on the will by the way, too many kids cough up their parent's prized possessions without thinking what it really meant to the family. Heritage, ancestry, history of the family, man. That's what an inheritance should be about. The legacy of the Family Seacraft... Sounds like youve got it down in the Berkshires

Bushwacker · #5 02-25-2009, 11:51 PM

Yea, Gillie, the holes in my wood blocks were about 2" in diameter after I cleaned out all the rot!

So I just sealed bottom of hole, filled the whole thing with thickened epoxy, and then redrilled the hole, but I did use a lot of 5200 on the brass tubes. You do have a good point about eliminating the brass that will eventually corrode. I considered PVC like Big Shrimpin used, but that reduces flow area which I didn't want to do . . if you ever get a big wave over the transom, you're gonna want to get that water out ASAP! The brass tubes were easy and allowed min wall thickness and max flow area, so decided to stick with original configuration. I had previously replaced those tubes about 30 years ago, so I'll let the next owner worry about the ones I just did a couple of years ago! If I was redoing the boat however, I'd go with the Moesly design with the scupper lines crossing under deck and draining out transom on opposite side of boat. Denny

Gary Hill · #6 02-26-2009, 08:12 PM

Ken (FELLOWSHIP),
Did you consisder cross draining?

MarkR · #7 02-27-2009, 07:21 PM

John 123

I replace the tubes in my '75 Sceptre but used Life-Caulk instead of 5200. It's more of a caulking than a glue.

I expect to do the next tube replacement and want to be able to get the brass out as easily as the first time.

bigeasy1 · #8 02-27-2009, 11:58 PM

Thanks Mark,
I kind of wondered the same thing,that if I had to replace them,how would I be able to easily get them out.
Originally,I planned on using epoxy to bed them in with,but thought it might be a b--tch to get them out if I had to change them.
I know 5200 is also permanent,so I've been giving some thought to Sika-Flex 291 lot.I use it quite a bit,Its a polyurethane like 5200,but a little less permanent.
I'll look into the life caulk,thanks for the info.

One advantage I have,is that the boat will only see freshwater (the Great Lakes)

McGillicuddy · #9 02-28-2009, 01:32 AM

I think Mark makes a good point. A poly-sulfide like Life Caulk definitely merits consideration especially if you're thinking you might do this again in 10 or 15 years. Lord knows I won't want to compete with 5200 when I'm older. I like the adhesion qualities of 5200 but maybe not its permanence in this application. As far as 3M goes, maybe 4200 is more appropriate. Bushwacker mentioned he'd used Life Caulk the 1st time he changed his scuppers. All we're really doing is creating a seal between fiberglass and brass, right? Get the flare right and tight and I guess that a quality sealant should suffice. The Sika-flex 291 LOT definitely fits the bill... heck of a lot more economical than the 3M products.

Bushwacker · #10 02-28-2009, 02:02 AM

Quote:

One advantage I have,is that the boat will only see freshwater (the Great Lakes)

That may not be an advantage. Wood rots quicker in freshwater than in salt water. I've know old timers with wood boats that put rock salt in the bilge to make sure that any rainwater that got into the bilge became salty!

As for bedding the scupper tubes, 4200 or Sikaflex might be a good compromise. Life Caulk is pretty good stuff and will even cure underwater, but I still ended up with quite a bit of rot in the wood blocks and a significant leak after about 25 years. They also make stuff now that will attack 5200, but might be a challenge to get it in around the scupper tubes!