Sceptre transom

[floorboy]

Ok It is gonna be time to do my transom next winter (should have done it this winter i guess)

Pretty much have it down what to do after looking on here, just have a couple questions.

1. Is it possible to leave the rear liner in and just cut the cap off? It is an i/o so the center will be no problem. I would rather not rape the liner since i just redid it last year.

2. Lay up schedule. What exactly do I need for mat? I plan on using epoxy, if for no other reason the smell. It will be done in an attached garage.

I want to start getting some of this stuff over the course of the summer, Where is a good place to get some of this stuff?

[abl1111]

1. Yes
2. I used poly so dont know epoxy

[bigeasy1]

Rod,as you know,I have the same exact boat as you do.
You can leave the rear of the inner liner intact,but it's one heck of a lot easier to remove the rotted transom core and the inner transom skin if you cut out the rear liner that has the lip for the motor box on it.
I removed the rub rail up forward of the hawse pipes made a cut on each side on the gunwhales right at the middle of the hawse pipe openings,and lifted off the rear cap.
I then cut the inner rear panel about 3"inches from each side down to the deck and across the bottom to the lip on the motor box opening.
This leaves the transom wide open making the transom core removal a whole lot easier.

Don't be afraid,you're going to have to lay up glass where you make the cuts on the gunwhales anyway,so what's a little more lay up and fairing.
Also it's going to be easier to tie in the stringers back to the new transom,and who knows what else you will find.You could have rotted engine beds as well.C'mon go ahead, cut out the rear liner panel,it only hurts for a minute,you'll be glad you did once you start digging out that peat moss with nothing in the way.

I don't see any activity from you on gla,I miss your posts and replies.That site's not the same anymore,it's gone downhill.
Keep us posted on the progress.If you give me a call,I can set you up with a great supplier for all your needs.You'll want to use a stitchmat if you're going to use epoxy.
Regular mat has binders in it to hold all those fibers in place,and epoxy doesn't dissolve the binder so it is difficult to wet out the material,it works best with a resin contining styrene(polyester vinylester etc),the styrene dissolves the binder.
Stitchmat like a 1708 has mat on one side and a woven double bias cloth on the other side,and it's held together with stitching (no binders).The epoxy wets that out nicely.Also because its stitched, double bias construction, it makes it easier to tuck into tight spots and drapes and folds very well.It is a very good structural material as well.

[floorboy]

John, I was gonna try to save a little work since I will be changing drives (expect a call on that ) and rebuilding the cap and getting rid of the corner hatches and putting one big one in the middle. I guess I can see how much room there is when I get the cap off. I just redid the floor and liner last year, but I guess I'm really not happy with how it turned out or the color anyway so maybe I will chop away. I will see how much room there is. Sounds like I can be left on. (thanks abl)

I agree on the gla thing. The reason you don't see many posts from me is that most of them get edited by the dirtbag mod before anybody ever sees them. I did just get a drive off there locally though.