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#3
02-11-2014, 09:59 AM
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After fishing my brothers 32 SeaVee with a flat deck, I would definitely want a flat deck in a CC. You lose a little storage space that you would have to make up for in the coffin box but that's not a huge deal. Also it would be much easier to get at your fwd bulkhead area to fix.
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#4
02-11-2014, 10:34 AM
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I know of several people who done it on the 20's but not sure I have seen as many 23's done this way. I saw a 23' regulator done this way and it turned out nice. Search SeaCraft84 or Patriot, they do there redo's with a flat deck. I will be doing my 71' sf with a flat deck but the 74' Im doing now will keep it. With the liner in the 20's, the flat deck would take more work to fit to the linner. It would work better on the MA's or maybe the sf's if you convert them to a 3 piece design. The way the 23's are built it wouldn't be as bad either since they are a 3 piece hull even thoe there is a linner skin under the gunnels. With the higher free board on the 23' it might work out better if you raised the deck height too so that it doesn't put you so low if you cast from the bow plus it will help with the self bail and larger four stroke weights. Down side you loose the storage but could gain it back with the box mentioned. I don't know if I would do it in a standard deck height 23'. I would have to stand in the bow and see how the gunnels would hit against me to decide.
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Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf
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#5
02-13-2014, 08:59 PM
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My 23 Contender has a flat deck and I would not have it any other way.
There was someone on this forum that has done it to a seacraft, the pictures were posted last year.
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Glen 1996 23ft Contender 08 Yamaha 250 HPDI 1965 13ft Cacci craft skiff with 20 Hp tohatsu 4 stroke 1992 20ft Shamrock Predator (Hard Top) 351 FWC PCM Repower SOLD First boat: 1988 17Ft Shamrock Open 3.0 Mercruiser RWC 140hp Traded
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#6
02-13-2014, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
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#7
02-13-2014, 09:51 PM
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I've wondered how the curve in the bow would work with a flat deck. Would you need to widen the cap so that when your leaning against the rail you feet are not behind you leaning you outward over the gunnel?
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#8
02-24-2014, 04:59 PM
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Alright guys, I need help. The more I think about it, the more I want to do it. Since I lack the vision and ability of strick, I will need a little direction on how to proceed. Just looking at it, I think I would need to cut the liner and remove the casting deck. Then I would extend the stringers all the way forward, tab the floor to the hull sides and then Figure out how to extend the liner back down to the floor. What happens to the front bulkhead/anchor locker? I have made several searches and have not found where this has been done (except the sc to conch conversion). Any help is appreciated.
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#9
02-25-2014, 06:37 PM
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This may help you:
http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/seacraft/2.php Joel did a casting deck but the process is still pretty similar. You may want to think about extending the liner down and glassing to that instead of tabbing directly to the hull. Alternatively, add a cleat (step) on the hull for the foredeck to rest on.
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#10
02-28-2014, 09:43 AM
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I have tossed around the idea of doing it myself several times.
My plan of attack would be to remove the liner all together. Build your stringer grid however you like and raise them. Lay your deck down and run it all the way to the hull sides and glass. Finally, i would core the hull sides much like Strick did on his yellow 20 build. If you really wanted to be creative, give it some thought and you could possibly build some storage or a fish box under the deck. OR, keep it simple and plan on a coffin box in front of the console.
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