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You might want to contact Mike at wildfire marine and see what he thinks. Pretty sure he did the restoration for Zach.
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With the level of hull failure you're seeing, I can't help but think you're going to find some stringer issues when you open her up. Either delamination, or the deck not bonded like Denny said, or some modification to the original stringer layout that reduced overall strength. There's some serious flex in the hull bottom for that keel to crack open like it did. Only time will tell. Good luck. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
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Sad to read this. You have to "know" its strong as or stronger than original before you go and spend all the time and money to make it pretty.
Its all just speculation until its torn apart ![]()
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http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/ ![]() my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=22090 |
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Would it not be better/safer to look for another hull with less issues and take what you have to it? It sucks to have to do that but better that than put a lot of work into the current hull and have a mishap at the wrong place and at the wrong time?
It sounds like you have to do a lot of work to repair the current hull and then there is always going to be that thought in the back of your mind |
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Good question GFS. Why indeed... There are so many failure points on that bottom. I would not be comfortable with her. I don`t know much about thermal imaging. Would you be able to see under her skin and all possible damage without grinding every inch of her down? Yes, everything can be fixed, but then you are fixing everything. I`m with Miami. |
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There is one in Miami a Master Angler that is cheap enough and comes with aluminum trailer and yami power that you can buy sell off engine and trailer and refub the hull to your liking |
#8
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Bryce,
Please let us know what you find when you have a chance to open her up. I'll be following with interest. I'm planning some similar modifications to a project 20 that's waiting patiently in my barnyard. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#9
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Very educational post! That's what would happen to afishin82's Seafari-to-CC "conversion" without a core on the inside of the hull! The Seafari inner liner covers up very little of the inside of the hull because the tall coaming in the cap, which is highest right in the center of the hull where it's most needed, adds so much bending stiffness to the hull. The MA model can also have a more open inner liner because of it's taller and stiffer cap. I'm sure Moesly put a lot of thought into those solid inner liners in the CC's! They add a lot of bending strength to the hull, so if you cut them away to add rod stowage against the hull without restoring the lost stiffness, this is a good example of what to expect! Too bad the PO spent so much on beautiful cosmetics without getting the basic structure right!
Besides the addition of a core on the hull sides, I would assume most of the deck will have to come out so those cracks can be repaired from the inside. A friend that's been doing fiberglass repairs on big yachts for about 25 years says that when you see cracks like that on the outside, the delamination on the inside is usually much worse.
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
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Thanks for posting Bryce! It's valuable information indeed! Denny
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
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