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#1
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Attention Glassperts
Been doing a little work on the contender since the weather finally warmed up a little. The previous owner added these "braces" under the gunwales up toward the bow. Not sure if there was a lot of flex or if he did it because of the bow dodger that was once installed? Where the brace contacts the liner the glass is broken on both sides of each one. The glass work leaves a little to be desired. What is y'alls opinion on the best way to attach these braces to the liner? Please don't tell me this is a trapezoidal spacer situation! I never fully grasped the concept the last time it came up. Any advice is appreciated.
BA |
#2
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In a corner like that, upside-down?
Sandblast to prep. Then vinylester. In small batches. Wet the surface, apply dry mat. Wet with VE. Let it gel. Then repeat with a larger patch of mat. Do this for 4 or more layers? You need VE as it has the flexibility and will dissolve the binder in the mat plus you can tune the tack time. Polyester won't flex and epoxy won't dissolve the binder in the mat. You have to mix in an unwaxed cup. Sometimes solo cups will hold together long enough, but likely not. A dozen chip brushes and maybe a half gallon of VE and at least 8 polyethylene quart mixing cups should do it. |
#3
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Between the outer skin and inner liner there's about 1/4" of balsa core; the hull sides are a bit flexible compared to below the deck.
My 25' Contender also has similar braces/gussets under the cap; they don't run down all the way down like some other boats, so you don't hit your feet on them. If you walk on the cap, right where those gussets are, the cap is the most flexible. I think he had the right idea, but would use epoxy and Biax, due to the flexing. Some epoxy putty, filets, and double/triple tabbing should do it. |
#4
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Thanks guys. I will hopefully get these cut out tomorrow.
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#5
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Doesn't look like they used and fillets, just laid in the glass on a 90 and there is air pockets.
Grind back at least 4" both sides of joint, make an epoxy fillet, let it tack up then lay in a strip of 1708 tabbing. You can wet the tabbing strips out on a piece of cardboard first. It's pretty easy repair.
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http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/ my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=22090 |
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