Crack in transom, port side only. What do you think?

[jeff6645]

After sever days of fishing very rough seas I noticed that a couple of cracks has developed on the port side of my transom (red lines). If I grab the foot of the motor and push up and down with all my weight I can get the crack to open a little and close. I figured the transom was shot... I starting drilling some test holes to see how mushy the wood is... well the wood comes out nice and clean everywhere except on the port side around the cracked area and about 8" below the crack and even there is it not totally mushy just dark and damp. Should I just plan on replacing the whole transom or just redo the area where there is rot? Can you use Seacast to do a partial repair? I would like to get back on that water as quick as possible... maybe do a complete replacement this winter and fix the cutout that previous owner made to mount a short shaft engine. Thanks in advance for your input!!

Yamaha 250 two stroke long shaft on a bracket.
New transom 12 years ago - previous owner.
1974 23' Seacraft

[Stauter99]

Others may disagree, but in my opinion you want a solid, one piece transom core. If it were me, I would not just patch the bad spot, I would go ahead and replace the whole thing. If you aren't up for doing it yourself I would recommend Mike Lasarge at Fiberplastics on Halls Mill.

[Terry England]

Jeffro, It looks like you might be able to put a 3" or 4" aluminum angle across the transom just under or above the fibergalss transom stiffener that is already there. If you can "catch" a couple of the bracket or engine bolts that's even better. Have someone weld a couple of 4" X 6" end plates on the ends of the angle and through bolt them to the sides of the transom well with some backing plates on the inside of the battery boxes. That should hold you until the fall and don't forget to trim the mushrooms off if the grow up through the crack - we have our "standards".

This is a common problem with two stroke outboard motors - they have too much torque. If you had one of them mild mannered, Mr. Rogers four strokes with the same torque as a hamster wheel you wouldn't have these kinds of problems, fer gosh sakes. Since that OX-66 will last you until about 2036 you, got some time to pick out one you like. By then you'll be old and OK with going slow.

Poking the 2-S / 4-S embers!

[Capt Chuck]

Originally Posted by Terry England

Jeffro, It looks like you might be able to put a 3" or 4" aluminum angle across the transom just under or above the fibergalss transom stiffener that is already there. If you can "catch" a couple of the bracket or engine bolts that's even better. Have someone weld a couple of 4" X 6" end plates on the ends of the angle and through bolt them to the sides of the transom well with some backing plates on the inside of the battery boxes. That should hold you until the fall and don't forget to trim the mushrooms off if the grow up through the crack - we have our "standards".

Come on Terry, you know the drill--------> 1974------> 40+ year old transom. The transom is shot, period.

Jeff,Don't spend a bunch ching into temporary fixes. Removing the motor, rigging disconnects, bracing metal plates etc etc etc.....bite the bullet dude, it's time.

Think safety first not another few rides while I can.

Sorry just my 2 cents, what the hell do I know anyway, I don't even own a SeaCraft anymore......Good Luck in your decision.

[Terry England]

Originally Posted by Capt Chuck

Come on Terry, you know the drill--------> 1974------> 40+ year old transom. The transom is shot, period.

I know Boss, but June a bad time of the year for Tyvek - Global Warming, Short Red Snapper Season and all. Just try'in to help a poor Coon Ass boy limp by till October! Jeffro, get an Epirb, SeaTow membership and roll on Brother! The Gulf over there is dotted with Oil rigs you can shimmy up on - just bring 'ur ear muffs.

[TomParis]

I have been thinking about this too, because if I am going to buy a new motor I would want to make sure my transom is solid.

This is what I was looking at it, you can pick it up at the factory in Ocoee which is a suburb of Orlando. I have watched some videos demonstrating the installation process.

http://www.boatoutfitters.com/Coosa-Board


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6132VcsXBk

[FishStretcher]

Originally Posted by Terry England

Jeffro, It looks like you might be able to put a 3" or 4" aluminum angle across the transom just under or above the fibergalss transom stiffener that is already there. If you can "catch" a couple of the bracket or engine bolts that's even better. Have someone weld a couple of 4" X 6" end plates on the ends of the angle and through bolt them to the sides of the transom well with some backing plates on the inside of the battery boxes. That should hold you until the fall and don't forget to trim the mushrooms off if the grow up through the crack - we have our "standards".

This is a common problem with two stroke outboard motors - they have too much torque. If you had one of them mild mannered, Mr. Rogers four strokes with the same torque as a hamster wheel you wouldn't have these kinds of problems, fer gosh sakes. Since that OX-66 will last you until about 2036 you, got some time to pick out one you like. By then you'll be old and OK with going slow.

Poking the 2-S / 4-S embers!

Do this. Aluminum C channel will be far stiffer and stronger than fiberglass. It is what I did on my 20MA. It works great. I used 6063 alloy with radiused internal corners. I got away with 3 feet in the splashwell and two below deck between stringers. I am on year 3. I got a single 5 foot piece from McMaster (.com) and it picks up all 4 outboard mounting holes. I sealed it down with some 3M 5200. It is bulletproof figuratively, and almost literally.

Heavy underpowered 4 strokes make torque on the transom as they bounce on the trailer at 70 mph.

[flyingfrizzle]

You can add plate or channel to patch it up to get you by till it cools off or the end of the boating season but I agree with Captain Chuck. If you are going to do a repair, Do it right and replace the whole transom.

[jeff6645]

Thanks for the input... I did a little more de-construction on that side and it looks like when the transom was replaced around 12 years ago they didn't tie that side in to well to the top and to the inside shell... best I could tell is they did a lot of filling in the void with resin only a single layer of thin cloth where everything comer together (also looked like some bondo was used and it is was kind of soft, can stick a thumb nail in it) ... I am thinking I may remove the motor and remove what they did and beef it up with multiple layers of fiberglass and cloth.. the wood is a little wet in one area but can't stick a screwdriver in more than 1/8" by hand.. have to use a hammer. Once I do this see if this stops the flexing.. What do you think?
Even if this fixes it after finding what I have found I think this winter I will redo the transom just for peace of mind...

PS: I have put over 3600 miles on her in the last 7 years and most of the them in Gulf of Mexico... I guess about time for something to break. :-) on second motor... love my old school two stroke engine!