73 20 potter just bought

Zack1121 · #1 01-10-2017, 09:19 PM

How's it going new to the group. I am buying a 73 20' tomorrow that needs a floor and transom so I'm going to restore the whole thing I was wondering if you guys had a list of dos and donts so I don't jump the gun and have to tear stuff back out. I also have an 89 20 I am working on. The potter has a bracket and the 89 does not possibly thinking of selling the 89 once I get get it painted by not sure since I will have 5k in both hulls might be worth finishing both of hem well any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance

Bushwacker · #2 01-10-2017, 11:10 PM

Welcome aboard Zack! If it's got a bracket, I'd suggest you check out my post on pros & cons of brackets. Also take a look at Capt. Terry's post on how to calculate CG location. Plan on moving console & gas tank forward to keep CG near the original design location.

Zack1121 · #3 01-12-2017, 08:26 PM

Thanks for the response I didn't end up buying the boat with the bracket needed more work than I wanted to tackle I'm gonna stick with my 89 the hull is in pretty good shape. I'm going to be painting it eventually have a bunch of scratches and stress cracks I have to tackle before that happens I look forward to learning some good information off the site. I am going to be buying a 2004 Yamaha 225 four stroke next week for a deal I couldn't say no too .do you think the boat will handle the weight? I know it a really heavy motor but I did see one with a 350 on Google search wasn't sure if it was a dumb idea or not to try and mount it or if I should sell it and try for a 140 or 150 four stroke well any information would greatly be appreciated

Bushwacker · #4 01-12-2017, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zack1121

. . . I am going to be buying a 2004 Yamaha 225 four stroke next week for a deal I couldn't say no too .do you think the boat will handle the weight?

No. Are you trying to build a flat water race boat?! I believe those V-6 4 strokes weigh over 600 lbs, only about 2X what the 20' hull was designed to handle! The reason it's probably a good deal is that it's weak "225" that just barely makes 225 hp, with well known crankcase/exhaust corrosion problems. Might work if you removed the casting platform and moved the console up to the bow! Just because you "saw one on the internet with a 350" doesn't mean it works well or is a good idea!

If you will only consider a 4S, a better choice would be the 140 Zuke that weighs a little over 400 lbs, about the same as the 2.6L small block V-6 150/175/200 E-TEC, although it won't match the E-TEC torque. If you want to go with a non-repairable throw- away block without cylinder liners, I believe the 115 Merc, 90 hp Zuke and maybe even the 90 Yamaha may be even lighter.

Zack1121 · #5 01-13-2017, 12:59 AM

Gotcha prob won't be putting it on the boat I know the guy selling it he is going to a 350 the motor has only 300 hours on it and was inspected for corrosion in the exhaust. I guess I will sell the motor and try to get a 140. from what I have been reading is the 140 is the perfect motor for the 20 and they don't have very many issues other than the midsection corrosion that only some motors have. Do you know a good site to find through hull fittings and splash well fittings? I wanted to go with something with a little more quality than the cheap ones that came on the boat. The boat has a 60 gallon tank moved forward so I'm hoping I won't have any self bailing issues

Bushwacker · #6 01-13-2017, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zack1121

. . . Do you know a good site to find through hull fittings and splash well fittings? I wanted to go with something with a little more quality than the cheap ones that came on the boat , , ,

Don't know what's available in your area, but when I repaired my leaking vertical scupper tubes, I ordered a couple of long brass 1" tubes that were flared on one end from the local Boat Owners Warehouse store. They had 'em the next day and I think they were less than $15. Any decent marine supply place should be able to get stuff like that. I made my own flaring tool from some 3/8" threaded rod, nuts, washers and tapered 1/2" drive sockets, but if you have to replace several thru hulls, it might be worth investing in a flaring tool made for the job.