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  #1  
Old 06-18-2017, 03:48 PM
striper56 striper56 is offline
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Default Constantly Burning out bow light

I have a new Perko bow light that is constantly burning out the bulb if I leave it on for a long period of time. 5-6 Hours. Where should I start for fix the problem? Thanks for your help.
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2017, 03:54 PM
db3155 db3155 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by striper56 View Post
I have a new Perko bow light that is constantly burning out the bulb if I leave it on for a long period of time. 5-6 Hours. Where should I start for fix the problem? Thanks for your help.
you have the wrong bulb.
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  #3  
Old 06-18-2017, 08:26 PM
NoBones NoBones is offline
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Weak ground or hot wire, to much resistance on the bulb...
12 volts, is 12 volts !!!
Would burn out if it were a 6 volt bulb..
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2017, 08:43 PM
striper56 striper56 is offline
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how do I fix a weak ground or hot wire?
thanks Ken
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  #5  
Old 06-18-2017, 09:25 PM
NoBones NoBones is offline
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You have a poor connection or a bad spot in the wire that runs from the ground
or from the hot that comes from the switch..
Check and re-do all connections IE: switch and splice from wire harness
to the Perko !! NO butt splice !! Only solder and heat shrink for your
connections.
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  #6  
Old 06-19-2017, 11:58 AM
Basketcase Basketcase is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoBones View Post
You have a poor connection or a bad spot in the wire that runs from the ground
or from the hot that comes from the switch..
Check and re-do all connections IE: switch and splice from wire harness
to the Perko !! NO butt splice !! Only solder and heat shrink for your
connections.
I'm trying to wrap my head around this and I can't figure this out. A poor connection in the circuit will lower the voltage on the circuit, yes? How would that blow the bulb?

I too solder and shrink tube all connections but if you do, you need to make sure they are properly supported afterwards or you may end up with wires that break right where the solder ends due to the constant movement of being on a boat. I like the adhesive wall shrink tube. If you must crimp, use high quality connectors and a good crimp tool. Most people don't own a real crimp tool, and a soldering iron is much cheaper.

Edited because one of my statements made absolutely no sense.
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  #7  
Old 06-19-2017, 08:53 PM
NoBones NoBones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basketcase View Post
I'm trying to wrap my head around this and I can't figure this out. A poor connection in the circuit will lower the voltage on the circuit, yes? How would that blow the bulb? I could see maybe a short after the bulb might cause it to act like a fuse but just a loose/corroded connection?
Very simple, that poor bulb is starving for the proper current for it
to function properly !! If there is a lack in carrying capacity in the wiring
system the bulb gives out prematurely ...

My electrical engineering degree from the early 70's still stands..
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  #8  
Old 06-20-2017, 08:22 AM
Basketcase Basketcase is offline
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I do NOT have an electrical engineering degree, so I clearly don't have the background that you do. I would like to understand this because I find it interesting. I know my way around a fluke, and did 12v electrical work for 15 years and this never came up before. What exactly is it that happens to the bulb that kills it? I would not think lower current capacity of the circuit would cause MORE heat to the bulb. I would think less, which would extend the life of the bulb. Yes?
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  #9  
Old 06-20-2017, 10:13 AM
Capt Terry Capt Terry is offline
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Default Marine Wires- Solder vs Crimp

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoBones View Post
NO butt splice !! Only solder and heat shrink for your connections.
I know Ken like him and usually respect his opinions. He is the EE and I am the ME, but thought I remembered from years ago avoid soldering on marine wires. So I just googled it. I quickly saw 3-4 sources including one from www.marinewireandcable.com with pros & cons of soldering vs crimping. Consensus: crimping preferred when done with a good crimping tool (including tug on the completed joint). If soldered, support well to avoid fatigue of the joint from vibration. As Ken mentioned, adhesive heat shrink tubing was recommended. (I have had good success with 3-4 coats of liquid electrical tape in locations where appearance is not important).

Like replacing transoms there are plenty of opinions. I don’t intend to post anything else on this topic, so if interested, check the pros and cons for yourself.
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  #10  
Old 06-19-2017, 03:51 PM
striper56 striper56 is offline
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Thanks for the info NoBones and Basketcase. I will redo the connections as described and check the wiring for any defects.
Thanks
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