Hitch-hiker/Float-On floating style trailers

erebus · #1 09-18-2018, 10:31 PM

So for my new to me 23 Sceptre I was able to score an original Hitchhiker trailer perfectly set up for the 23 Seacraft hull.
Fits like a glove.

I put the boat in last spring, with no problems, but...
When I went to haul out the other day I backed the trailer down the ramp and the damn thing floated right up off the ramp!!!
I was still able to drive the boat on OK, but the boat was drifting one way, and the trailer was drifting the other, WTF?
Is that supposed to be how they work?

The trailer has really tall guides so I was able to kind of center the boat on the trailer and then have my wife drag it out, but I couldn't believe it when it was just floating there.

Is there a technique I'm missing here?
Maybe don't back her in too deep?
Strap the boat to the trailer before driving up the ramp (while everythings still floating)?
Use a shallower ramp?

I work for a boatyard and have no shortage of experience hauling boats, but a floating trailer was still a new one on me. Must not be a New England thing.

Any advice from the big Seacraft brain?
Other than the floating thing, the hitchhiker is a sweet trailer.

How you paint your bottom when you have access to a big-ass forklift.

Beaver · #2 09-19-2018, 05:00 AM

I’ve never heard of a floating trailer. Is it a box style where it’s trapping air? Is it the tires that are making it float? Seems like you could ballast it somehow.

Beaver · #3 09-19-2018, 05:15 AM

There is a good thread on Hulltruth talking about this issue. One guy replaced his wooden bunks with aluminum and said it never floated again. He said the wood bunks create 300 to 400lbs of lift. Another guy said he filled a 2” pvc pipe with concrete and clamped it to his trailer with hose clamps.

Good luck.

uncleboo · #4 09-19-2018, 07:06 AM

My Hitchhiker floated after putting juniper bunks on. I thought the trailer would be heavy enough to hold it down, but, nope. I used a sheltered ramp so I never had any trouble. Got a Road King last year...it don't float.

erebus · #5 09-19-2018, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beaver

There is a good thread on Hulltruth talking about this issue. One guy replaced his wooden bunks with aluminum and said it never floated again. He said the wood bunks create 300 to 400lbs of lift. Another guy said he filled a 2” pvc pipe with concrete and clamped it to his trailer with hose clamps.

Good luck.

Ah, I assumed it was the tires, but the bunks making too much lift makes much more sense.
They are pretty big wooden bunks.
It is a very light trailer. I can horse it around (with no boat on it) pretty easily.

PVC with concrete seems pretty low tech.

77SceptreOB · #6 09-19-2018, 07:45 AM

I had the same problem on my old Wesco trailer. Except in my case only one side of the trailer floated. That makes it a real PITA to load/drive the boat on the trailer. I felt this condition was partially my fault due to the fact I changed out the galvanized steel wheels (on both sides) to aluminum wheels. That difference in weight was all it took to create the floating condition. I wrapped some galvanized anchor chain around the frame of the trailer in the back on the floating side and that solved the problem

DonV · #7 09-19-2018, 09:14 AM

"Any advice from the big Seacraft brain?"......you sure?

My brother's Hitchhicker trailer does the same thing. Between the tires and the new wood bunks we put on it floated. We completely re-did the whole trailer; sand blasted the paint off, new bunks, lights, guide post, tires/rims springs and axles. It does not seem to float as bad now. We are going to go with the 4" concrete filled pvc conduit wrapped to the frame channel until we get the weight right then replacing that with lead. If we ever get around to do it I'll let you know how much weight it took to keep it from floating. However they sure do tow nice!!!

Capt Terry · #8 09-19-2018, 09:44 AM

With 40 years on the Hitchhiker can't say I recall it floating as a normal event anyway (it may have happened). However, some of you may back down further than I do. Anita drives the boat on at minimal control speed, but doesn't power up, and I winch the boat the last 4-6 feet or so. Amount of submersion will also depend on steepness of the ramp. I really like my Hitchhiker.

strick · #9 09-19-2018, 09:50 AM

Had an aluminum trailer that used to float. Solution was not to back it in too far. I guess you can add some weight to the trailer if you want as well.

strick

JUST JOHN · #10 09-19-2018, 10:02 AM

Nothing of related value to add except that I really love the green hull... very pretty color combo! ...

My own recent unrelated woes with my roller trailer are that my rear-most starboard roller set will float upwards and stay there due to the extra play in the U-clamps (nuts rusted in place).

First time I had problems I had to pull it out and dunk it at least half dozen times before it sat correctly. I've since learned to tell when it isn't sitting right when cranking it up (as the cable rides lower and eventually rubs the winch cross-brace as the boat gets close). Also learned not to dunk the trailer too deep, and how deep to dunk at various tides... and to walk it up onto the roller. If I dunk it too deep, that roller floats vertically and tends to stay there, and also the boat is almost always off center. I hammered in rubber blocks under the U-clamp to add some "friction" and "centering", but not sure that "band aid" worked. I think I've only had it "go wrong" once this season since I learned to live with it. Ultimately I'll probably replace the hardware.

Next trailer will be a dual axle bunk trailer, so thanks for the free knowledge about the potential for floating and the fixes!