Classic SeaCraft Community  

Go Back   Classic SeaCraft Community > Recovered Threads
FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-28-2018, 09:21 AM
ricknewman ricknewman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Eastern Shore, Va
Posts: 164
Default Keep it original?

Started ripping in to my '78 23' center console yesterday. I got the t-top and console out and all hatches removed. I've got the head console with the removable tub recessed under it. So far the only repair needed seems to be weak spots in the deck. My question is whether or not to keep it original or change it up. Is there any value in keeping things as Potter intended?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-28-2018, 11:46 AM
bmajvi bmajvi is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: St. Croix USVI
Posts: 134
Default

Interesting question. Of course in cars there's value in keeping things stock during a restoration not sure that's the case with SeaCrafts if the mods are well thought out and executed well.
__________________
1977 23' Sceptre
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-28-2018, 01:07 PM
Capt Terry Capt Terry is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 573
Default Make it yours

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmajvi View Post
Interesting question. Of course in cars there's value in keeping things stock during a restoration not sure that's the case with SeaCrafts if the mods are well thought out and executed well.
I largely agree. My 42 year old Seafari is mostly original. Chgd some trim added things like swim platform, etc. it’s not like the Corvette competition where my buddy lost points for the wrong air filter wing nut. Some bad mods could adversely affect desirability.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-28-2018, 05:57 PM
cdavisdb cdavisdb is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sarasota, FL
Posts: 1,056
Default

These boats are very well laid out, often in subtle ways. Mine doesn't look all that different from my last boat, but it sure works better. Things are put in better places, etc. I've made some minor mods, but if I can't see a definite drawback to the original, it stays that way.

Modifications can make perfect sense, but make sure you understand your needs and have thought out exactly how the mod will work.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-28-2018, 08:21 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: W.P.B. ,Fl.
Posts: 4,586
Default

1,000 hours Imagineering= 100 hours of actual work.

The boat is yours. Build it out for your wishes and desires.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-28-2018, 10:46 PM
wgscott329 wgscott329 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 21
Default

Are you cutting the floor out and replacing it or fixing the soft spots as is?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-28-2018, 11:15 PM
wgscott329 wgscott329 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 21
Default

Just saw your other thread about cutting up the floor and checking fuel tank.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=29602

This is what I did to mine to give you ideas about what you could do to yours. The changes I made to mine greatly improved the boats ride quality, gave me tons of under deck storage, brought the boats CG much further forward than the original layout, made space for an easily accessible bilge area, and raised the floor in the back so it stays dry. All that said, most of these improvements can be made without changing the original stringers, and I wouldn't change them unless you really have to or really want to for the under deck storage.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-29-2018, 09:13 AM
ricknewman ricknewman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Eastern Shore, Va
Posts: 164
Default

Thats an awesome rebuild! I'm debating how far to take this.With a new 250hp and steering running about 20g's I am definitely limited as to my repair budget. If I remove the tub under the console I would lose storage but I could move the tank forward.How much do you think that would affect the ride and wet feet factor? Also thinking about raising the transom to 30".
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-01-2019, 07:00 PM
ricknewman ricknewman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Eastern Shore, Va
Posts: 164
Default

Got my deck all cut out today and have some questions. I left a 2" lip around all sides to attach the new "cleat" for the new deck but the core thats left in the 2" piece is wet. What to do now? The Potter putty that is left on top of the stringers looks like it serves as a leveling tool as well as an adhesive so do you want to remove it? The rear half of the deck was cored with end grain balsa and the forward with plywood 1/2". Is this the norm?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-02-2019, 11:13 PM
wgscott329 wgscott329 is offline
Recovered
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 21
Default

You might be able to skim off the top layer of glass right where it makes the turn up to the sides of the liner. Take out the bad core, and then make your new floor to fit over the bottom layer of glass remaining. You probably need to take all that potter putty off. Its a pain. Moving the tank forward probably won't lift your stern all that much, I would bet 1/2" or less. most people raise the floor about 2-3" to solve the transom water issue. If you want to do this you'd have to flatten all the potter putty anyway to be able to evenly heighten the stringers, and your floor would be hitting the liner 2-3" higher, so the lip you left around the edge would be irrelevant at that point.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
All original content © 2003-2013 ClassicSeacraft