#11
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Re: plug lining
Did you guys use the same thing for the thru hull scuppers in the floor? I am thinking I should replace them, but am not sure how to go about it.
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#12
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Re: plug lining
I drilled my through the floor scuppers out oversized, plugged the holes with west system and then redrilled to the size of the brass tubes, used 5200 and installed the tubes. That way the expandable plugs fit good and there is no space between the hull and hull liner for water to enter.
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"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
#13
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Re: plug lining
I've heard that brass tube drains will last ten years or more and should be replaced as part of regular maintenance when they begin to breakdown. Don't plastic thru hulls and tubes crack after a few years?- PF
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#14
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Re: plug lining
I replaced the origional brass tubes with
long ones bought from a whaler dealer, cut them to lenth, used a flairing tool with 5200. Its been 12 years without a problem. |
#15
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Re: plug lining
Here is a plastic type drain tube. No flanging tool required.
http://www.marineandmore.com/mp_stor...D=179/CATID=37 I would use the brass that will probably last for over a decade, Quote:
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#16
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Re: plug lining
If you're pulling the rotten tubes out of the floor-definitely check the surrounding wood-you might not like what you find. Mine was pretty easy to dry out and then I got the rotten wood out with a few different router bits and speedbores-sealed everything up with CPES and then made a plug with thickened epoxy and drilled it out again. Kind of involved but I feel a little better about that part of the boat that is sitting in the water now. I'm not even sure if I'm going to put a tube back in but I might just for aesthetics.
Anyone who bought the Whaler tubing-is it thicker than the standard brass drain tubing that they sell at most marine stores? |
#17
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Re: plug lining
puck yuck give me a call at offshore systems custom fiberglass at 508 759 1177 i have the tool to install brass tubes / on my customers i install fiberglass tubes
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#18
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Re: plug lining
I asked my local boatyard to check out my transom/bilge drain plug and they popped out the old plastic drain and attached a brass fitting to the outside of the transom. The fitting recieves a 3/4 brass threaded plug. If I put my finger in the hole I can feel the plywood in the transom which doesn't seem too right. What should I do to make this hole/fitting/plug etc. be right?
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'86 20 ft CC with 4-stroke 150 yamaha |
#19
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Re: plug lining
HatTrick-
There seem to be many possible corrections to that boat yard fix. I don't have the building skills as the other craftsmen on this site, but if it were me, I'd pull that plug holder back out and make sure you get the wood nice and dry and then seal it with a penetrating epoxy and/or epoxy before putting that holder back in. The thing I would worry most about is if they just screwed that in in that area, sooner or later you're going to have a fine amount of water intrusion if you don't seal it up properly. I'd hate the thought of that plug holder not being fastened securely. |
#20
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Re: plug lining
Just FYI for you guys.. I have a 77 23' with the plugs that run through the floor. They appear to have been replaced a long time ago with plastic ones and one on the starboard side is cracked. lengthwise crack running the length of the pipe. After splashing it the first time it didn't seem right to have that muchwater in the bilge... Hmmmmmm... just a word to the wise to make sure those are right on. I have to fix it but in the meantime I would keep it plugged from the underside which kept it from being self bailing anymore but will keep water from coming inside. a bit worrried what I might find now if that allowed water into the wood blocks. I'll soon find out.
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Scott Atlantic Beach, NC 1977 Sea Craft 23SF 250hp Suzie 4-stroke |
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