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  #11  
Old 10-13-2009, 07:32 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Default Re: image test

Quote:
Brady Brunch- late breakfast or early lunch?
Very late lunch. Have you seen Alice`s knife skills?
Nice use of the leftover cherry. Like the montauk style windshield too.
GFS
oh, and welcome to csc.
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  #12  
Old 10-13-2009, 08:13 PM
mnwnvc mnwnvc is offline
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Default Re: image test

Another possibility- create a profile mold of your hull and laminate 1/8 strips of mohog with West System. Trim on edge on the table saw, I know sounds scary but works. Use this at your own risk. Bolt or and screw on edge, plug. Teak with all of it's oils does not glue well.

M
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  #13  
Old 10-13-2009, 10:43 PM
BigLew BigLew is offline
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Default Re: image test

Hey GFS! What's up, Bud?

Before I forked out 10K for a mold or something similar for a press- through die, I'd check out some of this composite material they are selling for dimensional lumber for house exterior trim! Worse case scenario would be that you have to notch it a bit to get it to bend to the curve of the hull. I'm not sure what an appropriate adhesive would be, but kurf marks sound like a pretty good bonding surface on the substrate for some quicker curing epoxy! Just a thought. I wonder if you can get that stuff in true inch or inch and a half dimensional stock? I have been told that it takes paint and is sandable, too. Durability may be an issue depending on how soft it is.
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  #14  
Old 10-13-2009, 10:50 PM
BigLew BigLew is offline
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Default Re: image test

Michael,

Thanks for the offer, but I have a 23' Scepter and I am a while away from the point of putting spray rails on.

I've been looking to redirect my consulting/contract business or look for a job since my lead consultant/partner is in the process of "changing directions." What we had been doing really requires the two of us to really make it work.
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  #15  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:07 AM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Default Re: image test

Quote:
Hey GFS! What's up, Bud?

Before I forked out 10K for a mold or something similar for a press- through die, I'd check out some of this composite material they are selling for dimensional lumber for house exterior trim! Worse case scenario would be that you have to notch it a bit to get it to bend to the curve of the hull. I'm not sure what an appropriate adhesive would be, but kurf marks sound like a pretty good bonding surface on the substrate for some quicker curing epoxy! Just a thought. I wonder if you can get that stuff in true inch or inch and a half dimensional stock? I have been told that it takes paint and is sandable, too. Durability may be an issue depending on how soft it is.
Happy hour at Michael`s with the new Michael?
Hope to get up there next Sept for a little BFT fishin.
I`ve got some PVC rails I wanna plug a mold from. Still hunting for a suitable cost effective castable resin. Mark Nichols of DOA lures microwaves his vinyl for casting. The industry gurus say that`s not possible, but I know better, and so does he! I want to make lots of them. Lots and lots.
GFS
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  #16  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:20 AM
mnwnvc mnwnvc is offline
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Default Re: image test

BigLew- Take a look at PVC white brick molding. Measures 1 1/4 X 2 X 1 You could saw it to any profile you want. Maybe not necessary to glue to hull, or would 5200 stick to PVC?
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  #17  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:27 AM
mnwnvc mnwnvc is offline
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Default Re: image test

Plastic trim products vary in formulation and density. The higher density products are more dimensionally stable, stronger, and indentation resistant, but are also more expensive. Plastic trim is normally sold primed and ready for paint, or a stain for a simulated wood finish. PVC trim is less costly than polyurethane, but its surface must be lightly sanded prior to painting.
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  #18  
Old 10-14-2009, 09:39 AM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Default Re: image test

Trying to find something softer and more flexible. Something with a Shore A durometer rating of 70 or so.
GFS
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