What do I use on my teak?

[otterhound]

Being in the boat repair and maintenance business for over 30 years I've tried a lots of different varnishes. The one I keep coming back to is Z Spar Captains #1015, it holds up well for me and is a lighter look than Epiphanes. I try to stay away from the polyurethanes as they tend to be more brittle and crack when hit or banged.
Rod

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by uncleboo

Epiphanes is my choice as well. I cleaned, sanded and coated my teak with 8 coats. Looks the same today as it did 2-1/2 yrs ago. I posted some pics of the results in another thread somewhere.

Teak Protector

There are multiple opinions- depends on the look, ease of application and re-application. Epiphanes used by friends, Bushwacker and 65Bowrider looks good; a bit shiny and dark like the wood in a nice, old bar (a compliment). In the summer of 2005 when my teak was looking pretty bad with tree trunk like scale in some locations, I bleached and sanded it clean and applied Siskin’s Cetol, maybe 4 – 5 coats. Cetol was recommended by a wind-bagger friend (for ease of application and refurbs) whose sailboat is always in the SC elements. Four months after Cetol I started storing my boat under roof. With weekly use between April and October, except for minor repair of scratches with an artist brush I have not touched my Cetol in the last 10 years. It looks almost as good as when first applied! This photo is 6 years after application.

Capt Terry

[kmoose]

I treat mine with fish blood and salt water.

[Terry England]

Originally Posted by kmoose

I treat mine with fish blood and salt water.

His teak has the same "luster" as driftwood!
Wait a minute - he ain't got no teak, you can call home and ask his wife!

[FAS]

plus 1 on outerhounds 1015 captains varnish..works great ..We have to charge extra for epifaines gloss.Not as good ,imho. ! Amazing how much response you get on a piece of teak,on this site. and nothing on a complete rebuild..Just sayin.....

[cdlong]

You guys are great! Thanks for all the advice. I have to get her back looking new again and find a correct full cover.

[cdlong]

Ok guys, how do I prep the Teak? What weight sandpaper? I have always used the harsh cleaners, but never again.

[Bushwacker]

If the soft part of the grain is gone, you may have to sand it a lot to get it smooth, so sanding with 60 grit is ok. Bare teak will quickly clog fine sand paper; I’d give it a final sanding with 180 grit before 1st coat of varnish. Follow their directions . . . thin first coat 25%, then thin the next 4-5 coats about 5%, allowing it to dry for 24 hrs between coats. No thinning required between subsequent coats. If you use Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss you won't have to sand between coats if recoated within 72 hrs, although if you get bubbles or bugs in it, I’d sand it locally with 280 grit. Before the last coat I’d sand everything with 320 grit or you can use a red 3M pad to knock off the gloss. I did mostly wet sanding of the varnish to avoid clogging the paper.

[cdlong]

I have a 1975 Cub Cadet garden tractor and on the posts they always want pics to guide you in repairs. I forgot, so here's some pics of the teak. I also have a pic of the stuff I put on it last. I am concerned about sanding because I figure I need to remove the teak to sand and th Po had a bad habit of using marine silicone sealant with adhesive to fasten everything. I have several spots near the rod holders where I had to remove them because they got broken into pieces.

[shine]

A "permanent" fix is to use a 2 part clear urethane. It builds a thicker film that is UV resistant and does not need anything for many years. You just sand it smooth and apply, you can apply all your coats in one (maybe two) days

There are several brand of two part urethanes clear coats for wood, we have a 20% off the EMC ST clear right now for forum memebers.

here it is on JFK's old boat