Starting issue

[Islandtrader]

After a long time in dry dock the 21 is back on water

One issue that has popped up (I'm sure from non use)when I turn the key to start position I hear CLICK than nothing! Try again and it starts . This does not happen every single time. I may get 10 or more starts and then click...it seems the click happens when sitting for awhile...like over night?

Thanks in advance .

[76Red18]

Click at the key switch or engine? Switch, I would say a short, engine I would say solenoid.

[pelican]

Originally Posted by Islandtrader

After a long time in dry dock the 21 is back on water

One issue that has popped up (I'm sure from non use)when I turn the key to start position I hear CLICK than nothing! Try again and it starts . This does not happen every single time. I may get 10 or more starts and then click...it seems the click happens when sitting for awhile...like over night?

Thanks in advance .

the "slave solenoid" - this is what sends power to the starter solenoid - top of motor - yellow wire/red tracer to it - these can be a problem on occasion - slight corrosion build up on the internal terminals...check that sir

[bobbert]

Ditto on solenoid.
and
Merry Christmas

[caper]

Bad ground

[Bushwacker]

Terry,

I still have all the original Cole-Herse all-brass push pull electrical switches on my boat. Although they build up less oxidation/corrosion than cheaper quality switches, after the boat sits for a few weeks in the salt air, NONE of those switches will work until they're cycled a few times to knock the oxidation off the contacts!

You're located even closer to the salt air than I am, so I suspect you're seeing the same thing, probably on the solenoid contacts, although oxidation on the ignition switch could also reduce voltage going to the windings in the solenoid. This could cause it to not "fire" as hard as normal and make it less likely to break thru any corrosion that may have built up on the HD contacts inside the solenoid. Denny

[Islandtrader]

Originally Posted by pelican

the "slave solenoid"

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

NONE of those switches will work until they're cycled a few times to knock the oxidation off the contacts!

Ditto on the above...this is where the problems are. The joys of salt water

[pelican]

one of the smartest things you can do - to avoid a whole lot of problems :

invest in a few cans of that product I recommended to you - lear research corrosion block spray - or,get a gallon jug of CRC 656 - use those products and get in the habit of spraying down the motor - this will keep the moisture off and inhibit corrosion

do not use the cheap products - silicone,wd40,etc - they're useless,kinda like peeing on a forest fire....

[pelican]

let me add something...

water in the bilge,sea water,boat's covered - heat builds up quickly...water evaporates,yes ?
salt is left behind,salt wicks moisture - it has a corroding effect and a prying effect

moisture rises too...

covered rack storage - bad environment ! corrosion city !!


enclosed motor area - like an I/O set up - gets pretty hot in there huh ?

get what i'm saying ?

[wattaway2]

Interesting discussion . Recently contacted a remaufacture of electrical equipment I.e. Large circuit breakers , switches and contractors . Had a interesting conversation with them and was enlightened to the fact that contacts are made to "wipe" the contacts to clean them ! They to not just slam against each other. They recommended cycling circuit breakers 10-15 times once a year without the load just to clean the contacts. Leads credence to having to cycle the switches