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  #11  
Old 07-07-2020, 02:26 AM
erock erock is offline
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm thinking against it now but still want to see what the surveyor comes up with.
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  #12  
Old 07-07-2020, 06:35 AM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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Friend of mine told me take a scratch awl and poke and look for softness. I also found the tap test very helpful.

I’d suggest Check your transom and your bulkheads.











Here’s my mantra “when in doubt, swap it out!”
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  #13  
Old 07-07-2020, 06:57 AM
uncleboo uncleboo is offline
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Keep your eyes open. Boats that have been redone fairly recently do come up for sale.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1594119183
A little snapshot of mine.

Aside from the grumbling and moaning, I feel like everyone on this site who has redone one for their own use is extremely happy and confident in their boats.
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  #14  
Old 07-07-2020, 07:08 AM
bmajvi bmajvi is offline
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My take is that the odds are strongly in favor of original transoms probably being compromised, at least to some extent. I'm not as "anti-wood" as some guys, if you start with marine ply and encapsulate in epoxy, but that's not how it was done in the 70's. And as the boats have aged, many have had holes drilled and not sealed correctly, not received the proper repair and maintenance needed, etc. So, yeah, I think it's probably a good idea to expect the transom to have issues - if it doesn't flex, doesn't have a reinforcing plate, taps solid, moisture meter readings look decent, and old screws and bolts come out dry, you're one lucky guy!
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  #15  
Old 07-10-2020, 12:20 PM
77SceptreOB 77SceptreOB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmajvi View Post
My take is that the odds are strongly in favor of original transoms probably being compromised, at least to some extent. I'm not as "anti-wood" as some guys, if you start with marine ply and encapsulate in epoxy, but that's not how it was done in the 70's. And as the boats have aged, many have had holes drilled and not sealed correctly, not received the proper repair and maintenance needed, etc. So, yeah, I think it's probably a good idea to expect the transom to have issues - if it doesn't flex, doesn't have a reinforcing plate, taps solid, moisture meter readings look decent, and old screws and bolts come out dry, you're one lucky guy!
Correct! Nice summary.
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  #16  
Old 07-10-2020, 03:55 PM
erock erock is offline
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The surveyor checked it out the other day and you guys were right on. The moisture meter was pegged. I guess trying to find an original with a dry transom is like finding a unicorn.
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  #17  
Old 07-11-2020, 08:06 PM
Xcomunic8d Xcomunic8d is offline
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Sad but not surprising.

It’s actually a very good exercise and quite an accomplishment when finished.

Check your bulkheads too. Hopefully he did that?
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  #18  
Old 07-12-2020, 10:18 AM
strick strick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erock View Post
The surveyor checked it out the other day and you guys were right on. The moisture meter was pegged. I guess trying to find an original with a dry transom is like finding a unicorn.
Boats on the west coast do fare better with usually only some deterioration near the bottom of the transom...there are other things that can have negative effects on the wood cored transom besides moisture...so you should plan on a transom re do if purchasing a boat that has not had it re done already...even if it checks out ok....it will eventually catch up to you.

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  #19  
Old 07-12-2020, 07:54 PM
Fr. Frank Fr. Frank is offline
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Just figure in the cost of the transom replacement in your negotiations.
I did my previous SeaFari 20' with ARJAY 6011 Ceramic Pourable Bonding Compound. I've also used it on two other boats. It was easy once I got the old wood out, and no cutting away the fiberglass skin on either side.
But you do have to look out for nails or screws in the old plywood. Wear good safety gear.
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