Bracket on 20 CC

[JohnC]

I am about to buy a 20 CC to restore and the plan is to replace the transom with a full transom and install a bracket. I have looked at 2 other boats that this was done to as well as photos of another one and all of the brackets were installed about 5" above the waterline. I assume that this was set up so that a 25" shaft outboard would fit properly. This setup seems a bit odd to me. Am I missing something? I guess having the powerhead another 5" out of the water is advantageous but it looks odd to me. couldn't you just have the mounting surface extend above the top of the platform 5" more. I also frequently crawl out of the water with dive gear on and 5" from the surface would be dificult. Please educate me.

[Scott]

Hey John
Maybe on a 20’ the bracket being out of the water 5” looks odd but…..

I have seen both (bracket at water level and 5" above) personally I like the higher bracket .... at least on the 23’. Like you said the powerhead is higher, in the case of a floatation bracket you get more buoyancy(well at least with Potters/Seamark bracket) the bracket isnt taking water over the platform constantly (saw this on a Regulator 26....seemed like the bracket had more water flowing over it than not while drifting. You jump on the lower mounted bracket at the dock and it goes under while your trying to get on the boat and I dont know about you but I dont feel like getting wet every time I jump on the boat. As far as the dive thing goes...I dive too....so what about an Armstrong ladder or in the case of Potter's bracket he has a ladder that collapses and stores under the platform.

Bottom line its personal choice but these are my reasons for wanting to go with a higher bracket....if it ever happens!!!

Good luck!!!
Scott

[John R]

Higher bracket - if you ever wrap fishing line in the prop or snag a lobster pot (or whatever you have down south [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] ) - you'll appreciate having the higher deck to work from...

[JohnC]

Thanks guys. I guess I need to get on the water with a 20 set up like I want. Your right, I don’t want to stand in water when I am on the bracket. I would think I could find a happy medium, maybe close to the waterline while someone is standing on it. As far as buoyancy, it seems like the deeper in the water the more buoyancy. It is a flat platform that will not hold water or fill with water so it would provide the maximum amount of flotation when completely submerged. I am curious about the potter bracket, where can I see one and how much to get one in/to Miami.

[John R]

John - here is a link to the Seamark Bracket by Potter... "Hermco" is also a member here (although I have not seen him for a month or so)...

http://www.hermco.net/seamark.htm

... here was a post about the bracket by Mr Potter (we pretty sure it's not an imposter [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img] )

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Why brackets for SeaCrafts (or most other open transom outboard boats!)?!! 1.SAFETY - The biggest cause of offshore accidents is capsizing due to destabilizing water in the cockpit which in almost all cases came in over a low cut transom. That is why we put full depth motor wells in SeaCrafts. A bracket alone helps this, but not as much as having a full height transom with the bracket 2. PERFORMANCE - All bracket mounted engines should give at least 8-10% better top speeds and improved fuel efficiency than the same engine(s)and propellor(s)transom mounted plus better steering at speed and more engine trimability. 3. MORE INTERIOR SPACE - You can cut out the old motor well or you can convert it to additional seating, a stern casting deck or additional storage space. (See the Hermco link for pictures of some he has done.) 4. STRENGTHEN THE TRANSOM - Brackets with full width integral swim platforms spread the motor weight and leverage out over most of the transom. A properly designed bracket can be used on most SeaCrafts in stead of replacing the original core and/or raising the transom height - For not a lot more money and a lot less work!!! CHECK OUT the complete Seamark ALL FIBERGLASS Transom Brackets and Transom Closing Systems at the Hermco link. And by the way, who ever thought it made sense to put a permanent ALUMINUM extension on a good FIBERGLASS BOAT----

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[BacDoc]

I have a 20' CC in the middle of a transom redo and chose not to go for the bracket based on cost. My Honda 130 has a 20" shaft and to extend to 25" would run over $1500.00. If cost was not an issue I would prefer to have the bracket for the reasons mentioned in the previous posts. Everyone I consulted had the same opinion - you need the longer shaft and a "floatation" bracket.

Based on my research the 2 best products are the Seamark and the Armstrong. If you need more info you can call the guy who is doing my transom work - Mike at Wildfire Marine (772) 286 1925(Stuart Fl.). He has done many resto/bracket jobs on SeaCrafts and he has a great rep among clients that had work done.

[Scott]

JohnC follow what JohnR has to offer…….

You should definitely talk with Don (Hermco) about all of the intricacies of the bracket.

Your right about using the same bracket at the different heights and its effects on buoyancy. The thing of the buoyancy and lifting the bracket in my case involved using the Seamark Twin bracket. In my situation with the 23’ and after lots of discussion with Don it was determined that to get the desired effect that I wanted going with the other bracket was the right thing to do. It has a larger surface area thus more displacement and so on (the single bracket has 400+ lbs of buoyancy and is at the water line whereas the twin bracket has close to 900 lbs of buoyancy and is around 5-6” above the water line). In other words it has more wetted surface area than the single bracket (I think the single bracket is 6’ across and the twin is 7’). But I don’t think this is the issue with the 20’ …. Again best to talk to Hermco about this…..He’s fairly close to you …I think in Stuart…

Important to note that the single bracket/transom closing system is designed for a 25” transom …..so I believe in your case (with a 20” transom) the bracket will already be above the water line by the 5” and I think will maximize your wetted surface area on the bracket . There are several posts on brackets that occurred a few months ago…..with lots of information.

Scott

[hermco]

John C
I have Mr. Potters 20' Seacraft here at the shop with a single Seamark bracket on it.I cannot tell you how far above the water it will sit as it doesn't have power yet.I don't think it would be an issue if you use the dive ladder that he offers as an option.It is a slide out fold down three step ladder that works quite well with the bracket.You can also see the Armstrong bracket here in town they are about 10 min. south of me in Stuart.
d.h.

[ August 14, 2002, 06:19 PM: Message edited by: HermCo ]

[Reel Smoker]

BacDoc, Mike at Wildfire did my 23 last year and I was very satisfied with his work,he mounted the bracket just right and installed scuppers out the back that work great . I was happy with Armstong also they painted the bracket the same color as the boat at no extra cost. Mike also has a 20 unless he sold it.John this guy knows what hes doing he specializes in Seacrafts. RS.

[JohnC]

Thank you very much for all your help. I will be checking out the Seamark and a couple of aluminum bracket manufacturers. I would also like to take a ride on a bracketed 20 with someone in South Florida to get a better understanding of what I am doing. I have so many questions at this point and I need a good brain to pick. I would be happy to cover any costs for a few hours on the water if anyone is interested. I have to say that it's rare indeed to find so many sincerely helpful people. Big kudos to Trayder and the people on this site.
John