The subject is a 74 20 cc with some problems

[Tarpinmon]

hey everyone im new here great to see such dedicated people to there Seacrafts. Ive been checking this site out for a while now and have a few questions since ive finally comenced on the project. The boat i have of coarse needs the works. Im pretty set on using a composit for the floor and transom. my concern is are there any brands that are better to use for a transom verses a floor. Ive been looking at Divinecell just because thats what the local supplier carries. Is there a common concensus on any one product?
Trayder I noticed you used Nida core product. How was working with it any pluses or minuses? I appreciate everyones insite. THANKS

This website is probably the best tool available for redoing a seacraft outside of a good grinder and a case of beer!! [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[gw204]

Some guys over on the Classic Mako board have been glassing in a single 1.5" thick sheet of Coosa Bluewater 26 board in their transoms. So far, they have been very happy with it.

http://www.coosacomposites.com/bluewater.html

That is what I will be using in my transom when the time comes.

[Tarpinmon]

Hey thanks for the tip gw204, I called the company and they stock this stuff out of annapolis md. This stuff has to be pretty tuff stuff It is basically a product like divinecell with layers of roven imbedded through out. I priced a 4x8 sheet at 1 1/2 inches thick of bluewater 26 . After I scraped my self of the floor I came to relize that I did here the price correctly it was $580 plus shipping if your not local. Its still one of my choices. I have them sending me some samples so i can see exactlly what im getting. But if any one has priced this product for cheaper If you could please let me know where id appreciate it. thanks again GW [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[Bigshrimpin]

If your original transom lasted 30 years laminated in polyester resin and with transducer holes.

Why wouldn't you consider marine plywood for the transom?

If you use epoxy and refrain from drilling holes in the transom or even if you seal them properly, you're new transom should last longer than the original.

how old will you be in 30+ years?

[EBEACH]

I agree with BigShrimpin, but oddly enough, I was thinking of using a composite on my 23 with a full transom. My thought is to keep the weight down. Still looking at that option, but will go with wood again if the savings isn't that great.

My research so far has been that Plywood weighs 25 lbs per 1/4 inch on 4x8 sheets. That coosa stuff would weigh 69.3 lbs on a 4x8x1 sheet. The weight savings just isn't there for me at that cost. On my 20 project, my supplier scolded me for even thinking of using composites.

FYI, be careful of using 1 1/2" material. The original thickness was 1 3/8. You may have a hard time refitting that splash well if you go thicker. I had this problem on my 20 sceptre.

$580 bucks? I would find another product. Nida Core is about $170, but would it be good for a transom???? How easy is it to fill the edges with goop?

[optiguy]

After having done 6 Seacraft 23 transoms in the past 2 years for customers, I think that plywood is still the best all round solution. The only thing we do different than most people is to mark the motor bolt holes before the exterior glass goes on and put in 4" diameter cores of Divinycell H100. If it was my own boat and cost was not an issue,I would use the H100 or H120 for the whole transom. As far as Nida core goes, it will work for a transom. But the glass skins will have to be thicker and there will be no advantage to using it. Also on the subject of saving weight. You always have to remember, if you lighten a boat from it's design weight, the ride changes. We have build boats very light compared to design weight for customes looking for speed, but to it always backfires when it comes to ride quality and handling. One Seacraft we modified by removing near 800 lbs rode like crap and pounded in 2-3 ft seas. It would also layover onto a hull flat if you did not use the tabs going straight. Now when it was loaded to go tuna fishing with full fuel and 1000lbs of ice. It behaved like a Seacraft should.
Just my 2 Cents.
Bill

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Ha Bill
Thanks for your input on this topic. I did my transom with wood and if I was doing it for a business I can see why plywood is still the way to go, wanting to keep the costs down. I also like what you had to say if you were going to do it for your own boat and was going to keep her for a long time using Divinycell. Plus your comment of weight, it seems that most people think liter is better but for me heavier is better as long as it is properly distributed in the boat.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[abl1111]

Just redid my transom w/ plywood. It is the way to go. Strong, cheap and EZ. If you seal everything correctly - you will have no problems.

Then, if you want to - where you are going to bolt through or screw through the transom, - drill out these areas w/ an oversized hole saw ( from the inside not going thru the gelcoat skin ), and remove the 'round' pc of wood.

Fill this round, voided area w/ a mix of West System epoxy and cabosil, place duct tape or a thin, temporary pc of plywood 'patch' over it till it cures. Then, from the outside ( the gelcoat side ), drill your thru hull through this epoxy. Bed your thru hull, and you will have no problems w/ rot 'cause all thru holes will go thru epoxy not wood.

alan

[WillyC]

abl111,
How large of a hole do you need to drill (the oversize hole). Would you go 4" diameters if not using a core material such as divinycell like Bill used. Also, do the motor mounting washers on the inside of the transom need to be larger than the oversized hole you previously filled with cabosil and epoxy.
Thanks -Will

[jw]

I used the Coosa bluewater for my transom, I laminated 2 3/4 in pieces together with epoxy and the white thicking product( brain fart I cannot think of the name of the product).
It came out nice, I live in Annapolis, yes the product is expensive, but It will never rot, or absorb water. I did call the company, just to check on the strength of the composite, as my rig is an I/O, He said 100 % of all the new boats are made of composites, just don't over toeque the transom mount for the OUTDRIVE.
Just my 50 cents worth.
Good luck,
JW