Relocated scuppers

[stevebrownell]

I just finished relocating the scuppers on my 72 20 I/O from each corner of my transom, to about 2 inches higher and 2 inches inward. After looking at some of the scupper fixes on CSC.com member's boats, I'm wondering if I should have mounted them higher. I did not raise the floor, so the drop from deck to transom outflow is about 2 inches over 2 feet. Also plan on adding the TH ball scuppers to the tubes I glassed in, but they will be below the waterline.

Question: did I go to low placing the exit holes where they are, or should I be ok. This boat will always be trailered, so it will not sit unattended.

[sailcat]

Sorry Steve, But the balls need to be above the waterline in order for the water to leave your deck. If your balls are below the water it seals your holes. Sounds like a she said deal.Your deck will drain once your underway or on a plain though.

[Capt Chuck]

balls need to be above the waterline If your balls are below the water it seals your holes. Sounds like a she said deal.

[Miles Offshore]

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[stevebrownell]

Well it sounds like it will drain underway - I'm not keeping the boat at a mooring or a dock, so I'm not worried about rain collecting. I can live with running the boat to get rid of any water that enters the boat. Most likely going to keep some removable plugs in the inboard scupper holes anyway.

Thanks.

[stevebrownell]

Sorry to beat this dead horse, but I was thinking that my current fix to the scuppers is crap. I glassed in pvc tubes from the rear drain scuppers to the transom, and was planning on installing TH ball scuppers on the transom. (I blocked off the deck scuppers and just went with the rear drain openings)

Based on the commnents of forum members, it sounds like those are really no good if they are below the waterline, as they would be in my install. Again, my boat is a trailer boat, so am I wrong in thinking that the TH ball scuppers are not the right approach here? Keeping two of those brass-and-rubber plugs inside the boat while at rest is doable also, but not my preference.

Also, should I instead install some kind of valve that could be opened while underway, inline with the pvc tubes I enstalled, and add the TH scuppers also, or just nix the TH ball scuppers altogether?

Last stupid question, in the interest of safety: should I scrap the TH scuppers, install two bronze or stainless thru hulls, and ball valves inline with the drain tubes I glassed in? It seems like there are some stories of plastic breaking in similar applications. (plastic thru hulls, vs. Marelon, etc.)

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Ha Steve
The 20’ SeaCraft seems to be the biggest problem boat in the fleet regarding the Scuppers. Building up the Deck is the Very Best Solution. But no one I know would build up a deck just for a scupper problem but if the deck needed to be done than both problems would be solved. I don’t think this is a option for you though. As for the PVC I totally agree with you I would NOT use pvc through a transom never ever. I would use a regular through hull brass fitting and hose or brass tubing would be my second choice. The reason why I say that is the potential flex in the transom from the scupper location to the inside the boat to the deck where it connects. But with the scupper hole under the water line again you got a problem yes ball scuppers should stop water from coming in but if something got stuck at the ball water would come in. I remember someone ran the scupper from the deck to the splash well where the motor is and let water drain out that way and there was another guy that talked about draining the water out the sides for the boat like Whitewater Boat Co. does their boats. Sorry I cant be any better help than that, I have the 23 CC and still have my scuppers going through the bottom of the deck, I use “THE VORTEX” and they work great for me.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

[sailcat]

Steve, I'll gather up some pics of how I did my 20'. I went through the transom but eliminated the drains in the floor. I have never had any problems with my balls. (Don't say anything Capt. Chuck) [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[stevebrownell]

Fellowship,

Always good advice/input, much appreciated.

I noticed that a few of the members on this board and the other "Classic" site seem to have used gray conduit pvc for drains and through the hull tubes - Warthog, in particular. The stuff seems pretty sturdy....

I removed the thin brass tubes from my transom, and they had corroded away - my thinking was that the brass is pretty thin - why reinstall something that is going to corrode again? After filling the old holes, I drilled new ones, wetted out and used epoxy/cabosil mix to build up the inner walls of the hole. Basically, I needed a way to connect the deck scuppers across the rear storage compartments/livewell to the transom (I have a I/O vs. an outboard), so there is a good 18 inches of air space from the rear liner through the compartments to the transom.

The point regarding flex is well taken, I may install a flex-joint inline, versus running a straight tube back - maybe that will be sufficient to counteract and flex on the tubes.

How about a valve and a flex-joint (hose) and call it a day, not even bother with the TH scuppers.

Bobber, pics would be great. I'll get my pics up on the site asap; members can take a look at the mess I've made. Are any shots of your boat online? Maybe I will just install the TH ball scupper vents and see how that works if the ball valve and flex-joint are not sufficient.

I was ready to rip everything out last night, but I'll wait to see what you did.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

With a I/O set up I don’t see that you could have a problem with PVC my concern is with outboards on the transom setup which could cause flex which could break the PVC. That’s the reason why I like the hose approach it seems like SeaCrafts have at approx 10’ space between the deck and the transom and that is a lot of area that can’t be checked easily and cracks or a break in the pvc could be a Major problem. As for the brass tubes I would rather go with regular through hull fittings before going with the brass tubes, they were never designed to go 10” or for someone to attach a hose to them. Through hull fittings could hold the pressure of two hose clamps and if you go to the boat sink supplies section you can get good fittings for the thin wall of glass close to the deck to attach there. They are making some through hull fittings that will fit flush to the transom instead of sticking out some in that way you could mount the ball valve to it without having any problems. Or if you can find a check valve approach in the hose better still. Back again I still have mine like the original design but I got the 23’ which does not have as much problems as the 20 do regarding this issue. Good luck
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]