Here We Go Again

[Snookerd]

"Quiet please, class is in session" Strick-Thanks for taking the time to explain and document your process. Lifting the deck after screwing the 2X4's down looks ideal to keep from tearing it up.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I figured you would make your own anyway. Now you got the excuse you were looking fore. You can customize the old one and then use it for a mold. After all why through $$$ at something you can do your self and after woods be proud of.

FellowShip

_______________________________________________

My motto: Just for the Grins

[strick]

Some of you guys are funny.

Not much done this weekend, was teaching the kids how to ride a bike. They picked it up really quick.

I removed the all the hardware off the deck cap and deck. They did not make it easy to remove the bow rail because they glassed over the bolts.




The cap cleaned up well. There is no coring except on the front part of it. I will core the rest of the gunnel cap all the way back.




In the above pic if you look real close you can see were they glassed in the wires for the bow light. Lord knows you cant have those wires flopping about. I cut back the stringers to allow room to remove the transom.




I was able to save one of the 3/4 inch pieces of plywood that made up the transom. It came out intact. It was simpley nailed to the first piece that was glassed to the outer skin. I will use this piece for my template for the new transom. The skin was sanded so it's now ready for the new transom.

I moved over to the deck and started filleting it with the saw saw.




I'm cutting off the back end of the deck were the scuppers are molded in. I'd like to reuse this piece and move it aft and allow another 8-10 inches of deck space. I'll fill in the floor were I took it out.




so far my plan looks good on paper but I'll see how it goes when it's time to put it all back together. I did not get to pick up fiberglass supplies like I wanted to this past weekend So Hopfully I'll be doing that this Thursday and doing some more work on the boat this weekend.

Well it's getting late and I dont want to miss my opera singing lessons. Heres one last pic of the King getting on it.



strick

[strick]

Still slow going. I took the old transom core and used it for a template to make the new transom.



It will consist of 2-3/4 inch pieces or marine ply. I'm using vinyl ester on this project mostly because the price of epoxy has increased dramatically since doing my last project. I Put down a layer of 1708 on the inside of the cleaned out transom and let it get tacky. Next I moved over to the the new core and put a layer of 1708 on one of the two transom cores. I smeared a good ammount of vinylester mixed with milled glass fibers and cabosil over the surface and layed the other 3/4 inch core on top of the first.



This should provide a good bond between the two. I put a some 1- 1/2 inch screws in the core to get it to suck together.





I had to cut a bevel in the new core to get it to sit in as close to the edge of the corners of the transom as possible.



Here it is ready to be installed.



The 1708 that I layed on the inside skin of the transom was still tacky which is what I wanted so I then smeared a good amount of vinylester/cabosil/milled fibers paste over that
and I also made a bed of this paste around the sides and bottom of the transom for the new core to sit into.



To get the new core to bind tightly with the outer skin I used 2x4's and long carriage bolts to suck it all together. The plastic sandwich wrap will prevent the 2x4 from sticking
to the sealed core.




Here is my sandwich job. It's nice and straight. I'll let it set up and cure before I finish the inside of the transom.



Next I cut some foam to extend the stringers back



It was kind of a pain getting them to fit right . I had to do a lot of cutting and rasping. But they fit OK. Nothing fancy here. They will get cabosiled in place and glassed over.



Thats it for now.

strick

[LEVERETTE5]

pretty work,your pictures and explanation are very good.How do you no what weight cloth (1708)to use for the different parts of construction?transome,deck,etc.What is cabosil?
Looking forward to seeing your progress. Thanks Keith

[Bigshrimpin]

Keith - 1708 is 17oz a biaxial cloth with an 3/4oz mat behind it. Their is 2408, 1808, 1208 etc. If I remember correctly 1708 usually is glued together 1808 is usually stitched together (w/o glue).

[71kidcasper]

Strick, You are doing a fantastic job. I'm sure that this project will turn our great. I wish I lived on the left coast so I could get a birds eye view. Do all the 69's drain the deck as yours does? I didn't know they used that configuration on the floor drains. All the ones that I have seen go through the deck not into the aft seats.

[NoDoze]

My 69' Seafari had the same drain config.
Strick, I was wondering what you used to seperate the top cap from the hull sides? I beleive you mentioned it was glassed to the hull, like mine is? I thought just running a cut-off wheel shallow along the inside corner might do it.
Also, I noticed you've left the boat on the trailer. Ive read several times that the hull might go floppy, or may not be square on the trailer after removing the cap, and its given me pause before I take that step. Any issues in that regard?

[strick]

Leverette- Fiberglass work can be a complicated or as simple as you want to make it. I like to keep it simple so I use three kinds of fiberglass material.

1. 1808 gets used with epoxy because it is stitched together instead of glued together so the thick epoxy penetrates the material better. You can still use 1708 with epoxy it just wont wet as easier.

2. 1708. I'm using all 1708 on this project because I'm using vinyl ester and it wets the 1708 easily.

3.3/4 ounce mat for finish work or as a first layer over a mold.
The 1708 or 1808 is used for structural work to give strength.

cabosil is some very nasty lightweight airborn material made out of silica. It is mixed with your resin to make a paste for adhearing two parts together. You must use a mask when mixing it.

71kidcasper- I think only the mosley boats had that drain configuration.

NoDoze- There were two places on my boat were the top cap/liner insert was glassed to the hull. Under the anchor locker in the bow and at the transom. I used a combination of the saw saw and the die grinder to get thru it. The hull should maintain it's shape as long as the stringers are intact. Trailer or not.

strick

[yachtjim]

Strick, I have always been told you need to use epoxy when bonding to existing fiberglass structures, like bonding your new transom to the existing transom skin. Since this is all I have ever known I have never tried using vinylester for repir jobs, only for new parts. What do you know about this? Have you used vinylester for repairs before?