tubes for deck drains

dcobbett · #1 10-24-2006, 11:41 AM

I've removed the 30 year old brass tubes in each of the vertical, through the deck scuppers in my 1976 20'SF as an inspection/precautionary procedure (they were in pretty good shape) and I am wondering if anyone has reemed out the holes to allow for either thicker walled or larger ID replacement tubes? Anyone have any idea of how big an O.D. the wood block and glass encasement will safely take?

Also, a lot of owners seem to either keep this style of deck drain, or replace it with some version of a through the transom drain. Anyone running with both types of deck drains, and how has it worked out? Seems like it would be a back up if one or the other got clogged on a moored boat (mine will be) and it would potentially double the water removal rate in the event the boat took on a substaintial amount of water while in use.

71kidcasper · #2 10-24-2006, 06:47 PM

I have the deck out of my boat and removed the blocks of wood that you are refering to. The blocks of wood were 4"x4" and were made of mahogany. So I think you could certainly enlarge the drains with any worry. However, the blocks of wood in my 20sf were no longer bonded to the hull only the underside of the deck. Good Luck

dcobbett · #3 10-28-2006, 12:42 PM

71kidcasper,

Thanks for the info on the wood block. Interesting that you found the top of the wood block in your SeaCraft bonded directly to the underside of the deck (I assume to the bottom of the cup that is cast into the liner). Looking at mine, it seems like there is a space between the two which is filled with a large wrap of glass. I assumed that was there to add strength to the thin walled tubing.

Anyone else opened up a hull to know how it was put together, and if the top of the wood block was in direct contact with the bottom of the cup in the liner?

1bayouboy · #4 10-28-2006, 01:45 PM

I haven't pulled the floor up yet....
but I posted a couple of photos on this thread....
under floor drain shots

Blue197320 · #5 10-29-2006, 08:27 PM

i cant find new tubes anywhere. is there a place everyone gets theirs from? i replaced one side with pvc but am havin a hard time finding a drain plug for it.

Old'sCool · #6 10-29-2006, 08:42 PM

I have some brass tube left over from my Whaler tube replacements. What diameter and how long??

Blue197320 · #7 10-29-2006, 11:29 PM

the tube is 1" diamater and its about 3.75 to 4 inches long... is the tube u have flared on one end?
thanks

Old'sCool · #8 10-30-2006, 11:13 AM

Not flanged, It's easy to do. You have to anneal it by heating the end to be flanged cherry red and immediately quenching in water. Flange the first end, cut to desired length leaving 3/16" - 1/4" for flanging the second end, quench the second end, apply sealer and/or o-ring (I have those too.)install in hole, flange the second end in place. There's a lot of info on the whaler site...www.continuouswave.com

Blue197320 · #9 10-30-2006, 07:43 PM

Reel
u said u might have some leftover tube. is that still the case? let me know.

Old'sCool · #10 10-30-2006, 08:50 PM

I have 28 1/4" and the o-rings to fit. It's yours for the shipping cost. Don't be scared of the flaring part. Once it's annealed it bends really easy without cracking. It's too brittle otherwise. The more square and accurate you cut the ends, the better it looks finished. The second flange is a two person job.....one to hold/one to hammer (an old towing ball works nicely!), or sometimes your local Whaler shop will rent (or lend) the flaring tool. All this assumes the tubes are flanged on both ends and capturing the hull against both flanges.