corrosion and torches - Page 2

DonV · #11 11-01-2011, 08:45 PM

You know Sandy.....I'm kinda enjoying your little T & T issue!!! Not because I'm happy you are in this pickle, but because I've been there many times and reading how you're attacking the problem brings back such, shall we say, fond memories!!

Remember the bigger hammer suggestion??, be sure your friend with the sledge hammer has good eye sight and strikes just the punch you are holding........

gofastsandman · #12 11-02-2011, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FishStretcher

You know to heat the eye and not the shaft, right? Wet rags on the shaft to cool it, while you heat the eye. The differences in temperatures and thermal expansion coefficients break the two free of each other.

Thanks. You and your brother Fish Shrinker need to come down for Snook season. That 4 inch window has got to go.

I thought about heating the shaft first to try to get it to expand and crush some white nasties and then going more traditional.

Yeah Don,
The thinking is half the fun. I have a handy snap on holder for the punch. Gotta dress is as it is mushrooming pretty severely. I missed the mullet run which is disappointing.

Cheers,
GFS

gofastsandman · #13 11-04-2011, 10:00 PM

3 cycles of heat and wait today. Drilled to the shaft. Filled w/ Kroil and boiled.

All thoughts are welcome.

This is quite the challenge.

Cheers,
GFS

65Bowrider · #14 11-05-2011, 09:54 AM

Persistence, patience, and determination.
You'll win.

gofastsandman · #15 11-05-2011, 07:46 PM

Got it moving about 3/8" back and forth today. I just went out for one last go and it locked up. She is wicking lots of Kroil. May have to get Bushwacker a new can.

I think the white nasties are eating too much Kroil food and expanding. Keep eating. I`ll melt that witch before the movie ends.

Now that the collars are free, I am back to thinking about drilling, tapping, and a slide hammer.

Is it more heat, or cycles?

Both?

Still working on that patience thing,
GFS

workinpr0gress · #16 11-05-2011, 08:03 PM

Time.....ever have really bad brake bleeders on a car? Sometimes you soak them for a week before you plan on messing with them. Now add saltwater, lol.

It's a teetering act, you want the heat it for expansion and contraction but not so much that the penetrant burns off. I'm sure it's really tight and powdered up with corrosion. Try maybe, OMC/BRP 6&1, Zep -45, Seafoam Deep Creep, but Kroil is pretty much the best. Just keep working it, slowly but surely.

gofastsandman · #17 11-05-2011, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by workinpr0gress

Time.....ever have really bad brake bleeders on a car? Sometimes you soak them for a week before you plan on messing with them. Now add saltwater, lol.

It's a teetering act, you want the heat it for expansion and contraction but not so much that the penetrant burns off. I'm sure it's really tight and powdered up with corrosion. Try maybe, OMC/BRP 6&1, Zep -45, Seafoam Deep Creep, but Kroil is pretty much the best. Just keep working it, slowly but surely.

Patience is a virtue,
GFS

Bushwacker · #18 11-05-2011, 08:50 PM

Sandy,

Getting that much movement is significant progress! It means the primary seizure area has broken loose, so the Kroil did it's work. Sounds like you've now got a secondary seizure trying to drive the corroded shaft thru the previously seized area. Patience is key! Don't want to screw it up after you got this far! Is there any way you can rotate that shaft? If you could rotate it maybe that would knock off some of the corrosion that has increased the diameter of that section of the shaft. Like the idea of drill and tap, provided the steel in that shaft isn't too hard, since that might allow you to turn the shaft! I'd opt for fine threads(more cross-section and strength/torque capacity) and use an SAE grade 8 bolt (6 hash marks on the bolt head, good for 150,000 psi min tensile strength; grade 6 (4 hash marks) is good for 133 ksi; grade 5 (3 hash marks) will take 105 ksi; grade 1 or 2 (no marks) is only good for 64 ksi, so you lose a LOT of strength going with a cheap bolt! Worst case scenario is the bolt is stronger than the shaft, so it'd strip out the threads you tapped into shaft. In that case, you would then have a good pilot hole to just drill out the shaft. However, one thing you DON'T want to do is break off a grade 8 bolt inside the shaft! Call me and I can give you the torque specs for what ever size and grade of bolt you use. I'd go with the largest size bolt that will fit, maybe a 3/8 or 7/16. Denny

gofastsandman · #19 11-05-2011, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

Sandy,

Getting that much movement is significant progress! It means the primary seizure area has broken loose, so the Kroil did it's work. Sounds like you've now got a secondary seizure trying to drive the corroded shaft thru the previously seized area. Patience is key! Don't want to screw it up after you got this far! Is there any way you can rotate that shaft? If you could rotate it maybe that would knock off some of the corrosion that has increased the diameter of that section of the shaft. Like the idea of drill and tap, provided the steel in that shaft isn't too hard, since that might allow you to turn the shaft! I'd opt for fine threads(more cross-section and strength/torque capacity) and use an SAE grade 8 bolt (6 hash marks on the bolt head, good for 150,000 psi min tensile strength; grade 6 (4 hash marks) is good for 133 ksi; grade 5 (3 hash marks) will take 105 ksi; grade 1 or 2 (no marks) is only good for 64 ksi, so you lose a LOT of strength going with a cheap bolt! Worst case scenario is the bolt is stronger than the shaft, so it'd strip out the threads you tapped into shaft. In that case, you would then have a good pilot hole to just drill out the shaft. However, one thing you DON'T want to do is break off a grade 8 bolt inside the shaft! Call me and I can give you the torque specs for what ever size and grade of bolt you use. I'd go with the largest size bolt that will fit, maybe a 3/8 or 7/16. Denny

Being patient,
GFS

OilFieldMan · #20 11-06-2011, 08:42 AM

heres my two cents I went through it with my 1985 T+T.

If you let it soak after heating the teflon bushing in the hydraulic piston eye cools back down and melts to the to the hydraulic pin adding more friction. I'd hit it hot. My experience was with this after only using a coleman propane torch that I use to heat, heat shrink for wiring. And your using map gas. After hours of beating that teflon peice out, it was good on the outside, melted on the inside. With all the hours your planning on putting into this, it may be easier/cheaper to buy a rebuilt one and paint it.

Me and wildman got the pin out of mine with heat and pb blaster as a cooling medium for the pin, heating spraying the pin only the pin with pb, and using a drift pin to bash it out.