Hard Top Plans - Page 3

ChampionShip · #21 03-26-2012, 01:55 PM

Made a lamination schedule for the project and looking for input. These are all materials we have in class but i can order pretty much anything under the sun if I need it.

Keep in mind, this is going into a formica mold that will be heavily waxed and it will have a pretty good size flange for removal and finishing.

1. Gel coat
2. 1 ply of 3 oz CSM
3. 2 plys of 2410
4. Foam core (thinking either 3/8" or 1/2"
5. 3 plys of 1808
6. Gel coat the underside for appearance??? Not sure about that one.

Should come out to be around 160lbs when finished give or take, has to be cored and needs 6 plys at least. All hand laid. I'm considering vacuum bagging to keep the weight down but not sure if it's an option just yet.

Does this seem like a solid plan to start with??

ChampionShip · #22 03-26-2012, 07:56 PM

Ok, change of plans to keep some weight down.

7 1/2' X 7 1/2'

1.gel coat
2.3 oz CSM
3.2 layers of 1808
4.3/4" balsa
5.2 more layers 1808

Should be around 130 lbs plus core weight.

strick · #23 03-27-2012, 01:31 AM

I like the second schedule better all except for the balsa. Core cell will have more compressive strength then the balsa. Also is it possible to cut the dimensions down a bit? I see it is going in a Tsunami? As for the pitch you wont need much and that is going to be the owners preference. Your going to want it as light and strong as you can make it

strick

pelican · #24 03-27-2012, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChampionShip

Ok, change of plans to keep some weight down.

7 1/2' X 7 1/2'

1.gel coat
2.3 oz CSM
3.2 layers of 1808
4.3/4" balsa
5.2 more layers 1808

Should be around 130 lbs plus core weight.

balsa ?

floorboy · #25 03-27-2012, 09:40 AM

That is what the instructor recommended I guess??? Why? Who knows.

ChampionShip · #26 03-27-2012, 07:18 PM

Yeah, I'm not sure why he wanted the balsa but I'm still thinking foam would be better. What dimensions do you think should be cut down? I want it to hang over the side windshields about 3" each side so it drains overboard.

ChampionShip · #27 04-04-2012, 10:30 PM

What should I use in the corners to create a rounded edge??

McGillicuddy · #28 04-04-2012, 11:33 PM

Quit baggin' on the balsa bro's. My 72 Seafari fore deck is cored with balsa and you can square dance on that triangle... Balsa is strong, lightweight, and properly sealed easily lasts 40 years (hopefully +) as coring. Not sayin' composites ain't better, but cheesus - it sounds like the Champ is a class aimed at teaching techniques, not necessarily using the latest, greatest available materials. Learning and discerning... How is it done, what is affordable, and finding a happy medium. We can't all work with Messr Borelli's budget, can we?

Looing forward to seeing the project, and maybe placing an old school order for the Seafari. Surely the lad deserves a stipend...

Carry on.

,
Mayor McCheese

Islandtrader · #29 04-05-2012, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McGillicuddy

Quit baggin' on the balsa bro's. My 72 Seafari fore deck is cored with balsa and you can square dance on that triangle... Balsa is strong, lightweight, and properly sealed easily lasts 40 years (hopefully +) as coring. Not sayin' composites ain't better, but cheesus - it sounds like the Champ is a class aimed at teaching techniques, not necessarily using the latest, greatest available materials. Learning and discerning... How is it done, what is affordable, and finding a happy medium. We can't all work with Messr Borelli's budget, can we?

Looing forward to seeing the project, and maybe placing an old school order for the Seafari. Surely the lad deserves a stipend...

Carry on.

,
Mayor McCheese

This is wear I tend to differ with Gilly...I do agree it is a class and they are teaching techniques. However when I got my 21 the deck was shot...the balsa core was soaked and rotten. Everyone says it will work as good as...blah blah blah. As long as it is sealed. What everyone forgets is that once some one drills that first hole and does not over drill and epoxy, you start down a long slippery path.

Plascore is not that much more than balsa. Do once and do it right.

Sorry Gilly

pelican · #30 04-05-2012, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Islandtrader

This is wear I tend to differ with Gilly...I do agree it is a class and they are teaching techniques. However when I got my 21 the deck was shot...the balsa core was soaked and rotten. Everyone says it will work as good as...blah blah blah. As long as it is sealed. What everyone forgets is that once some one drills that first hole and does not over drill and epoxy, you start down a long slippery path.

Plascore is not that much more than balsa. Do once and do it right.

Sorry Gilly

can't agree more...especially on a hard top - holes are gonna be drilled - balsa quickly turns to sawdust,when it gets wet...