#1
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Wema sending unit fuel tank fix
I had posted a while back that the dope that owned my boat previously,used sheet metal screws to hold the sending unit to the tank,and that a tiny amount of fuel was leaking around one screw.
As some of you mentioned,I also thought about redrilling and tapping out the holes to a larger size threaded machine screw,and even using some fuel proof sealant.I figured I'd use my air drill(no sparks)or maybe even my hand operated egg beater hand drill. I called the tech guy at Wema,and he recommended up grading to a Viton gasket,instead of the cork one that came with the unit,and to get what they call an under ring,,which looks like a round horse shoe with an opening.It has drilled threaded (metric)holes to accept provided screws. The trick is to get the ring up against the inside of the tank,and getting one screw started,so that it doesn't fall to the bottom of the tank.It then becomes a matter of lining up the remaining holes and getting the remaining screws installed. Of course I would still have to drill out the holes,but only enough to get the new scews in to the ring. I'm thinking about the best way of holding the ring while I get the screw in as I'll be alone when I'm doing it.I'm thinking possibly about some very fine wire or other means to work as a lifeline to the ring in case I drop it. So, Any Ideas??? what do you figure the odds are that there's going to be an "OOPS" moment or a four letter rant session? Here's a picture of it. the part # is FLSU http://www.wemausa.com/sensors/adapters.shtml#Underring
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All this,just for a boat ride |
#2
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Unless you secure it in place (epoxy or some attachment), this looks like a one shot deal; once it is on you won't be able to pull the sender later without dropping the ring into the tank...
I'm not a big fan of epoxy drooling into fuel tanks. Maybe add one or two very small flush screws through the tank into additional threaded holes in the ring? That way you can mount the ring first, the gasket would still seal and you may not cuss as much later. Still use a wire while you are doing it though. Be very careful about using a shop vac to pull the cuttings away, they make excellent ignition sources - don't ask how I know that... |
#3
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You`ll need 2 long screws so you can hold the Wilbur shoe and have room to move things around. maybe 2 1/2 -3 ". Put these through the top of the sender, gasket, tank, and into the shoe. Use the long screws to line everything up. Pull long screws up and put short ones in. Put a loop of light mono through the center hole of the shoe as an oh snap preventer. Remove before seating the wema. GFS, Chief Imagineer. |
#4
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You're over thinking this. The Wema sending unit doesn't have to be aligned in a particular direction because the float isn't on an arm. Just rotate it 20° right or left so it covers the existing holes and drill/tap new holes. Piece of cake, no worries, etc...
Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
#5
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Dave, I think Big John's referring to the screw hole alignment. The holes on the flange are not equidistant, so they will require lining up with the under ring. IIRC, the screw pattern is not an equilateral pentagon although it appears to be.
John, I think you could use a 1/4" wide strip of tin about 4-5" long, fold a hair-pin turn into one end, maybe 3/8" fold, and use that gap as a clamp. Maybe use two of them to keep the under ring level as you start 2 screws. Then slide tin strips out and tighten screws some, eventually, fitting the rest of the screws.
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there's no such thing as normal anymore... |
#6
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Dental floss....
Been there done that!!!
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See ya, Ken © |
#7
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I like the ideas that all of you guys gave me.My original plan was to do almost exactly what the chief imagineer gfs said.Now I'm thinking of a combo of them. It's amazing how I can make such a simple job so complicated.I think its my O.C.D.
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All this,just for a boat ride |
#8
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I hope you screw it up....than we all can hear the ranting and raving all the way down in florida....
Just kidding of course, but I thought this thread needed a little more LOL!!!
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#9
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Terry, you may very well hear the ranting all the way down south.
You should have been at the launch with us a few years ago, when no matter how many times I tried, I couldn't get the boat to load correctly on the trailer. I trailered all my life and launched and loaded all those years without a hitch (pardon the pun).That day was different, literally had to try 8 times, and even then it wasn't sitting right. Anyway the whole time, I was getting madder and madder, to the point of using just about every single four letter words and prases ever spoken. Finally, after I got it loaded, I turned around only to see the woman who collects the launch fees sitting on the bench laughing, she had watched and listened to my ridiculous tirade. I think I turned a few shades of red, and apologized profusley for my actions Her reply was "Don't worry, I've heard it all before, But! , you sure picked the right name for the boat" The boat name is......KING TEMPER
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All this,just for a boat ride |
#10
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Quote:
Maybe my solution is so simple it's hard to understand. I know the screw pattern isn't symmetrical. That's so the float arm will point in the right direction and won't hit the side of the tank, or a baffle. But the Wema unit doesn't have a float arm and it doesn't care if it lines up with the original screw pattern. If you rotate it a few degrees either way, so it no longer lines up with the wallered out (southern technical term) original holes, and drill and tap nice new holes, the flange and gasket will cover the old holes, and the nifty backup ring becomes unnecessary. This is what I did with both of the tanks in my Seafari, and they don't leak.
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
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