Bunk trailer setup

[SC204]

I have my 20cc on a roller trailer right now. The trailer is getting rusty and I don't want to be around when things need repairing. I rebuilt my old trailer to go with bunks. A few questions. IS there anything special as to where the bunks should be placed on the hull bottom? What wood is used for the bunks here in the NE? Any help would be appreciated.

[JohnC]

If the bunks are a little wider than the hull steps they will cause the hull to self-center when you pull it onto the trailer. The height of the skids at the front and back is important also. You want it high enough that the keel does not drag along the trailer frame when loading/unloading but low enough to float on and load easily. The front will be a little higher than the back because the dead-rise at the bow is more than at the stern. I have one (maybe 2, cant remember) keel roller near the back to get the bow pointed uphill before the hull makes contact with the skids, that helps.
If you have a trailer shop near you it may be good to let them do it or you could put it together and pay them a little to give it a once over before you put the boat on. Even then I would bring some tools to the ramp at a time when it isn't too busy. Put the boat on and off a few times and make any adjust needed. I did that with mine and it was well worth it. I just drive the boat up to the winch mast and tighten it up. My winch strap has never been unwound more than about 6 inches.
If you are in salt water use as much stainless and aluminum parts as you can. The extra $$ is an illusion! Stuff that doesn't rust is actually cheaper in the long run.

[wattaway2]

With my old 20sf trailer I put in a extra set of bunks not so much for suport but to act as a guide the outside set extended out further than the inside kinda forming a V to help guide the boat . Originally the distance from the roller and the bunks was enough that I could stick the bow between them if a running tide made it interesting to stick it on the trailer. It was a lot quicker to do it alone at a very busy ramp down here

[Mikem8560]

I just set up a used bunk trailer for my 20sf, the rear bunk were a bit wider then the then the steps at the rear but the front was right on the steps

later I can measure the bunk length high and width front and back ..


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[Dilligaf]

is that a hole next to your bow eye? anchor drain?

[BigLew]

White Oak on edge for the bunks. Pretty much the best thing after teak($$$$$). Be sure to include synthetic carpet (Astro-Turf) and Teflon skid strips. Plenty of ventilation so they can dry out between dunking's.

[Mikem8560]

Originally Posted by Dilligaf

is that a hole next to your bow eye? anchor drain?

yes there is

[SC204]

Thanks for all the replies. I went to a local sawmill and asked about having some bunks custom cut(4x10) They said either red oak or pine. He said the red oak would rot quicker which I found odd. Did not ask about white oak(prob expensive) I have also heard Hemlock is good to use. I plan on borrowing boat stands to make this happen and do it on land so I can cut the bunk angle to match the hull where the bunks will sit. Don't want to have to fuss with it later.

[flyingfrizzle]

On the last trailer I rebuilt I had some beams given to me from under a bridge that was being replace near my house that were 6x14" salt treated. I cut them down about 8" tall and then cut them on an angle to match the seacraft 20's hull panel. I made some brackets from 4" flat bar that clap on so there were no holes to drill in the trailer and that also allow them to be adjusted. They work well and will last for ever. I have seen people also use 2 2x8"s screwed together and stood on end and they worked well also but an oak beam is better if you can find one at a reasonable price.

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by BigLew

Four by is over kill. Hemlock may not take kindly to the through-bolting to the U-brackets. Three by or doubled two by is more than sufficient. If you want you can sleeve the through bolts.

Talk to a trailer manufacturer and see what they use. Just ask questions, they'll answer and then you will know what the pros use.

It's 20' and probably less than 4500# loaded and soaking wet, and hopefully with keel rollers.

Four by is over kill but the purpose of the wider board is so that it spreads out the contact to the bottom of the boat surface. The wider it is the less load that is being applied to the bottom of the boat in that area. The more you can spread the load out the better it is on the hull,