#21
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A few pictures of the console. You can see all the gauges will be at the steering wheel. I had to fill and glass 30 years of the PO's holes. I am contemplating filling in the whole front top section to flush mount all of the stuff. Anyone have an idea or pictures how it looks completely filled in flush? Main floor is in place. Front and rear tank bulkheads are glassed in and secured to the bottom of the boat. Used neoprene 1/4" with gullys on each side to drain water fore and aft. Tank is in, any and all wood is glassed over and sealed. 112 gal. tank epoxy coated. Secured with minimal foam. It had two 4 1/2" rigging grommets, now glassed and filled. I can put a new single grommet anywhere I like. The old Bennett trimmed tabs and transducer were removed, grinded out, filled and glassed with epoxy. Luckily, no water came out of those holes. In its home for the next few months. All hardware and rub rails are off now, all stress cracks etc. are grinded out, filled and glassed. Also decided to get rid of the front vents. They are backed with glass panels and they are on their way to disappear. As I pushed the tank forward I made up a space for duel batteries and an oil tank. Maybe a wash down pump too. Pumps and filter housing are in and wired. All grey gelcoated so its easy to maintain. This is how I left it - more to go every day... |
#22
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Been busy the past few weeks working on this 23 and other projects. Got some time to upload some pictures, so here's a few shots of the progress...
I decided to fill in the console for flush mount electronics and a large storage compartment on the starboard side. High build epoxy primer & a few coats of awl-grip; off white. Still have to sand with 1200 & buff it out. Came out nice |
#23
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We also found some oozing wood in the casting platform hatch. Thought we were done with all that wet stuff. We cut it all out to the skin & replaced it with 1/2 inch divinycell. 1 1/2 OZ CSM & a 1708 to finish it off. Tough & light.
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#24
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The deck has been in for a while & tabbed flush to the side liner. Original freeboard & drain channels. Just bought a nice yamaha 250 OX66, so it'll be a single engine, 30 inch shaft, not too heavy. Should be allright.
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#25
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I'm going to do the deck & inner liner in one shot & the non-skid later. Spraying the non-skid particles through the spray gun, comes out great. Any & all filler spots have been coated with the high build primer & then will have a 545 awl-grip primer before the final topcoat. Quite a bit of work & preparation, but the final outcome will be worth it. Still more going on daily, i'll get back with some more updates someday.
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#26
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nice rebuild I guess the transom core was in good shape?
Going to hand motor on the transom? Joel
__________________
http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/ my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=22090 |
#27
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Thanks Shine,obviously, more work than I expected, when I bought it.But, I want to hang on to the boat,so figured to do it All New.The transom was done before me and did a nice job.The boat had twins on it,they were removed, and a 30" transom.Happy for that!...Yeah, I will hang a big 2 stroke Yami on the transom,First to the Fish...
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#28
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Looking good, You have done a lot of work in a short time. I have a 1983 hull and I just hated the place they put that inspection plate in the splash well. With the motor in place, it was hard to see into the bilge and if there was a problem and I was in the water, I couldn't do anything about it anyway. Just my two cents, Ron.
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#29
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Looking good. By the way, adding foam will not make your boat float higher. Just the opposite. You have to add displacement. |
#30
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It's a pain in the butt working on a bilge pump with one hand. I am pretty good now a putting on wire ties with one hand. Try working on a bilge pump offshore with waves breaking in the transom. You have to have someone keep the boat moving forward to keep from sinking. |
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