Mini Outboard Brackets?

[thealife]

I am looking for some guidance for my 20 SC project,
I am looking at these mini outboard brackets made by stainless marine

http://www.stainlessmarine.com/produ...mini-brackets/

now my train of thought is, by having the outboard mounted on one of these mini brackets, e.g. the 7 or 9 inch ones, when the engine is fully down it is completely out of the boat so you can have a seat insert and insert boards on the transom to avoid water coming in,

what I like about this set up is that i'm not increasing the length of the boat massively (I have a small driveway and i not a big fan of those larger brackets) and I can build a pretty bad ass full stern seat for when the outboard is fully down,

but what about performance wise or trim? would such a small bracket do anything?

my boat is missing that entire stern section including the locker/seats ont he quarters and the outboard well so i'm still deciding what to do,
Any input will be most appreciated

[DonV]

Why not one of these? They are adjustable and serve the same purpose. They come in all set backs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jack-Plate-J...9Y3tGN&vxp=mtr

[FLexpat]

Originally Posted by DonV

Why not one of these? They are adjustable and serve the same purpose. They come in all set backs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jack-Plate-J...9Y3tGN&vxp=mtr

The only advantage I see with the mini brackets is that they displace some water below planing speeds - maybe 1 cubic foot??? That would be about 64 lbs of seawater. Not sure how the weight stacks up against the jackplate but I'm guessing it is pretty similar. Either way it keeps the motor closer to the transom which is good for a 20. Jackplate has more flexibility for adjustment though.

[Vezo, Part II]

I don't know how to link, but try the Bobs Machine 5 in 1. Main reason I had one on my 15 Whaler was to avoid filling and re drilling transom from old mounting bolt holes to the new Standard. Easier to drill jack plate to original transom mounting holes. 24 lbs. and the ability to manually dial into perfection, in combination with the right prop. Not for children or the faint hearted, that boat was a Porsche Carrera on water!

All you need is two 9/16" box wrenches, a sand bar, and beer. No hydraulics, fluid to leak, additional hoses. Highly recommended.

Vezo, Part II

[thealife]

man, I dont know,
I have been in the water long enough to know that bare aluminium underwater is never good,

Ive seen a few things after spending over a third of my life at sea, especially with smaller boats,
1 better wet with fresh than salty
2 water will always make its way in, so it always needs a way out,
3 bronze, stainless and zinc can go underwater and stay bare, everything else gets painted and preferably out of the water and elements,

ok on the last one maybe not so true with outboards and anodized alu pipe structures, but an outboard has been treated and tested to stay underwater for reasonable amount of time with minimal corrosion,
Those lifting plates have too many moving parts, corners and sharp edges, even if it got powder coated, or even if did a full underwater treatment on it (hull guard, 545 etc..), it can and will corrode and then the 1000 bucks I spent on the finish will bubble up and fall off!
Maybe not the case with using the boat for the day, but the time I keep it in the water for a couple of weeks it will be the beginning of the end!

thats why I am looking at this mini bracket, really now thingking about it, for the sake of 7 inches (no pun here) i might as well keep it all original,

[Vezo, Part II]

Bobs Machine is Black anodized aluminum. Twelve years in water and only a slight color change below water level. All other hardware is Stainless. It's a really nice piece of equipment.