Transom Shops In the Boston to Cape Cod area?

[Cape Codder]

Originally Posted by DonV

I can't and don't do NE America mathematics. Way above my head. However raise it to 26".

Why do you say raise it to 26"? Im looking at 25" motors.

[Cape Codder]

Originally Posted by erebus

Also ask him to throw in a couple of knees, one centerline and two off the stringers.
Not that much more work, and a world of difference in terms of transom stiffness.

Sounds like good advice but he's planning on doing the job from the outside. Is it possible to put knees in that way or would he have to do the job from the inside for that?

[erebus]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Sounds like good advice but he's planning on doing the job from the outside. Is it possible to put knees in that way or would he have to do the job from the inside for that?

I put knees on my 75 SF 18 and on my new to me 79 23 Sceptre. Both transoms done from the outside.
However, on the 23 I had a lot of the interior stripped out which made three knees a lot easier. On the 18 I just did one big knee in the middle to a Coosa pad on the inside of the transom at the lower engine mount bolts.

[caper]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Why do you say raise it to 26"? Im looking at 25" motors.

Typically the motor anti-cav. plate will end up being about 1" to 11/2" above the bottom of the boat so 26" will work better to allow more freeboard at the transom. Raising to 26" is good and seasoned advice.

[Cape Codder]

Originally Posted by caper

Typically the motor anti-cav. plate will end up being about 1" to 11/2" above the bottom of the boat so 26" will work better to allow more freeboard at the transom. Raising to 26" is good and seasoned advice.

Thanks for explaining but do you mean the anti cav plate will be an inch below the bottom of the boat?. And will the extra inch of transom height affect how the prop pushes the boat at all?

[caper]

No, an inch above for best and most economical performance. Won't affect how the "prop pushes the boat" but will allow you to get the motor height correct; and will give you an extra inch of splashwell height.

[Cape Codder]

Originally Posted by paulmv17

Roger Carroll Boat Carpenter, Chatham, (508) 432-8481

Bill Pires Mobile Marine Fairhaven I believe, 508-264-8026

Both good guys who do good work for resonable $$$

Finally got in touch with one of these guys and he seems pretty knowledgeable. I'd be comfortable giving him the job but but he wants to do it with Vynilester and Penske board. Would you guys consider that a good plan? Sounds like coosa and epoxy is the way to go from what Ive been reading around here.

[caper]

Pretty much a toss up as far as materials go - never a good idea to try to make a craftsman use material other than those he prefers.

[erebus]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Finally got in touch with one of these guys and he seems pretty knowledgeable. I'd be comfortable giving him the job but but he wants to do it with Vynilester and Penske board. Would you guys consider that a good plan? Sounds like coosa and epoxy is the way to go from what Ive been reading around here.

Penske and Coosa are basically the same thing. Also called Airex Pxc which is made by Baltek.
He wants to use Penske (Airex) because Composites One has it in stock and delivers on the Cape on Thursdays.
They don't stock all that much Coosa. Composites One bought Baltek or something and they now have a lock on the Airex product.
I've worked with legit Coosa and also the Airex (penske) product and they are identical as far as I can tell.

I would also be OK with Vinylester.
Vinylester has a much better secondary bond (new work to old work) than Polyester, which is really only good for new work, or for making parts from scratch. Polyester doesn't stick to old work very well.
Epoxy has the best secondary bond of all, but the slow cure times can really complicate things for a production shop.

I work for a boatyard, and redid my own transom this winter with epoxy, but that was over christmas when we were closed for a month, and I wasn't in a hurry.
I did some of the interior glasswork, and the three knees to the stringers with vinylester, with no issues.
Vinylester is a kind of hybrid resin that cross-links like a polyester and is peroxide cured, but has epoxy molecules in it to keep it from shrinking, to toughen it up, and to make it more waterproof than Polyester.
I use vinylester all the time. Hardly ever use polyester, and use Epoxy only on special occasions.

[erebus]

Originally Posted by caper

Pretty much a toss up as far as materials go - never a good idea to try to make a craftsman use material other than those he prefers.

What he said...