Missing fuel tank hatch

[Starling]

Hello all, it's me again -
I'm getting my list of priorities together before I tear into my boat this weekend and I have a major one for you.
Apparently the fuel tank was replaced on my 89' Tracker 20SF at some point and instead of just reusing the tank hatch they used aluminum diamond plate slapped down and screwed in. Obviously this has to go, and I need to evaluate the conditions under the plate including the tank and all that's connected to it.
My question is how would you go about fixing this: fabricate a new hatch (which I have no template or dimensions) or glass it in.
I'm thinking either 3/4" coosa or marine ply with supports across the width if I choose to enclose the tank. I'm not 100% sure what to do If it's recommended I fabricate a hatch.
-Thanks

[strick]

you can look through a lot of the builds here and on other forums...hatches are relatively simple to fabricate...3/4 inch coosa is a bit ambitious for such an endeavor if you intend to core it...

strick

[kmoose]

Pre glassed 3/4 nidacore. They even have it with glass and gelcoat on one side. Easy peasy.

[Capt Terry]

I recently replaced the plywood in my Seafari fuel hatch with 3/4" Divinycell H80. Plywood would certainly have lasted longer than I will. However, there are a lot more opportunities to add weight to a boat, than to reduce it. I saved 13-14 pounds over the damp plywood.

[Xcomunic8d]

Here this is really pretty good. Here’s some lessons I learned

Buy more acetone, gloves, and brushes. I’d also recommend an oscillating saw but a grinder works well, too.

1. Make the hatch slightly deeper (thicker than you need about 1-2”). You can cut it off easily and it will want to delam on those edges so you cut them off.

2. Make it to length and width you need. Give yourself a little room like 1/16 but no more than 1/8” for fit

3. More layers of glass will only make it heavier not stronger. It’s amazing but the hatch I made using less glass and resin but laid up better came out stronger and weighs half of my first one.

4. Only put gelcoat down 1x. A lot say 2 coats but mine reacted to itself and caused very bad alligatoring. Just put it on really heavy 1x. Again 2nd attempt was better. Gelcoat needs some thickness to work.

Remember your mold is the inside dimensions not the overall dimensions. If you use screws you will get easier access for popping out of mold. Melamine or some other smooth non-porious material is a good idea. Wax, wax, and more wax. PVA worked fine too but not worth cost here IMO. Round the corners with clay or silicone. Clay will give a gentler radius (art store). Silicone is fairly sharp. Grind a putty knife into a curve and you have the perfect tool.

I’d use a core material as already discussed. Divinylcell is not available here. I used plywood or thermolite (like coosa) depending on thickness needed. I wish I could get divinylcell.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LB-l...ature=youtu.be