Quote:
Originally Posted by JUST JOHN
... just about at the edge adjacent to the lip. So I'm not worried about penetrating the core material or drill/resin-filling sleeves, however I am worried about overtightening and bowing/stressing the fiberglass. I was thinking about using (rubber?) spacers, or build up that thickness w/ glass-filled epoxy... or just barely snug the screws when reinstalling. Thoughts?
Additionally, is there any benefit to gel coating the bottom of the hatch cover prior to reinstallation? I have waxed white gel coat and don't want to mess with multiple coats, but just wanted to hear thoughts. I bought it to patch the chips on the top of the hatch cover (etc).
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One problem with the hold-down screws used to fasten the hatch is that they're basically sheet metal screws which have very sharp threads. Since virtually everything on a boat moves just a little bit when you go pounding into some big waves. those sharp threads actually cut into the fiberglass and eventually come loose. I've had much better luck using machine screws with threads that aren't so sharp. If you make a small cut in the threads with a dremel tool cutoff wheel, that'll make 'em self tapping. I'd suggest filling the screw holes in the lip that the hatch sits on with some Marine-Tex, leaving a blob of material on the bottom, then once it cures, drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the screw. I think a No. 10 screw will be about the right size.
You'll probably want to caulk the gap around the tank hatch to keep water off the tank, but DON'T use silicone caulk because if you ever want to paint the deck, paint won't stick to any area with silicone on it, and you'll never be able to remove the silicone! I'd use something like West Marine's
Muli-Caulk.. It's also a good idea to lay some 40-50 lb test monofiliment down in the gap with a small loop sticking up before you caulk it. That way, if you ever have to pull the hatch, just pull up the mono to cut through the caulk!
06-02-2017, 11:47 AM
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