Rebuild assumptions open for feedback - long read

[Locke N Load]

I have been in the decision-making process for way too long so it is time to make decisions, buy materials and get to work. Here are my decisions for my Seafari 20 rebuild. I am open to constructive feedback if any of my plans can be improved or are just a bad idea.

1. Coosa transom, 3 layers of 3/4" Bluewater 26 with 1708 and epoxy working from outer skin in.
1.a. Layup schedule - 1 layer of 1708 on existing skin-Coosa-1708-Coosa-1708-Coosa-4 layers of 1708 tabbing starting 12" overlap onto hullsides and sole then 9", 6" and finally 3".
1.b. Notch in transom 28" wide at top narrowing to 26" 10" down from top of the transom. This will give 27" from keel.

2. Raising stringers from console bulkheads to transom 2" by laying vinyl gutter drain on top of existing stringers and tabbing in with 2 layers of 1708. 3 layers maybe? The drains will be the chases for wiring/cables,etc. from the console and batteries to the bilge area and motor.

3. 62 gallon 72" long gas tank starting at bilge bulkhead 24" from transom to 15" before console bulkheads. Epoxied in Coosa strips to support bottom and secure sides and ends. There are no welded on tabs on the top of the tank to bolt it to the stringers. Tank is bare aluminum so plenty of ventilation openings will be made.

4. A group 31 and a group 27 battery will be located under deck in the area between the end of the gas tank and forward to the console bulkheads. This is the 15" long area with 25" between stringers that would normally be the step down area between the helm chair and co-captain chair before going into the cuddy. Plenty of room for two batteries. I will try to make this area as waterproof as possible with proper ventilation and access from a hatch above in the deck. Not sold on this plan yet so open to suggestions, but it is plan A.

5. Carbon-core plastic honeycomb 1" sheets for deck. 1 layer of 1708 on the bottom and 2 on the top tabbing into hull sides.
5.a Hatches cut in for access to tank fittings on both ends and batteries.
5.b. Coosa epoxied in area under the seats to support pedestal mounts.

6. Bulkheads made with the 1" honeycomb tabbed to the existing dash, hullsides and stringers but not sole to avoid hard spots.

7. Cuddy area to remain original but tabbed to hullsides rather than epoxied.

8. Motor splashwell and seats area made with the honeycomb. 25" in from transom to allow motor to full tilt up.
8.a. Splash area will have a panel at 45 degree angle up from transom 19.5" up from the deck still allowing full tilt. The angled panel is to allow bilge access.
8.b. Seating on either side of splashwell. Seat height will be around 14" to allow a 5" or so backrest and hip support on each side. Seats will be about 18" deep and 19" wide. This area is plan B for the batteries. I would prefer to keep these areas under the seats open for storage or coolers or one of each.
8.c The vertical panel in front of the seats and splashwell will have a hatch in the center for bilge access. The opening should be about 18" high and 24" wide to reach down in under the 45 degree panel between the seats in front of the motor.
8.d Should the two inner stringers not be fully deck height to allow access to the transom between the outer and inner stringers? Thinking it might be necessary for trim tab installation.

That's it for questions for now I think. I will be ordering the honeycomb, 1708 and epoxy soon. I already have the Coosa. This should get me started and keep me busy for a while. Thanks for any feedback offered.