transom pros/cons

[JT]

Just a question for the experts or experienced, which is the better way to do a transom replace on 23 center console from the inner area or the outer skin?? just done a inner repair with deck on 20'did the entire deck to the stringers(both skins) but on the 23 all I plan on replacing is the two long strips of deck (on outersides of tank area) only the top skin will be removed on the 23,do a full transom w/bracket But back to the question, will it be as strong from the outer, as all you can do is glue it in to the existing "scuffed" matt or glass whatever they built it with, compared to as you go from the inside, you re-glass the whole thing What do you guys think? Thank you for replies

[Ed]

JT-

I've been taught that the only way to replace a transom is from the inside. The only exception to this rule is if the outer skin of the hull in the transom is completely beyond repair (i.e. large chunks of laminate falling off or gaping holes). The hull is a lot of the boat's strength and by cutting through it you're going to diminish some of the integrity. PLus, how can you be sure that when you cut out the transom from the outside, you're going to be able to reglass it exactly how it was without any hull/gunnel movement caused by the cuttingt?

In my opinion, cutting transoms out from the outside is popular because The Gougeon Brothers of West System Epoxy recommend it in their do-it-yourself books. This helps them sell more product (because now you have to do alot more glassing & fairing) and also because an outside transom repair is easier than an inside transom repair and therefore is more appealing to the do-it-yourselfer.

Talk to the experts, and all of them will agree that restoring transoms from the inside (when possible) is the best way to do it.

I am sure there are some guys on this site who have done it the other way with positive results, but why screw around with the hull's integrity when it can be avoided all together??

Good luck.

No matter what the Gouegon Brothers (West System Epoxy)

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I agree with Ed go from the inside you will never have to regret or worry about the results. I will say though if I had to do it all over again now I would use divinycell with epoxy not marine plywood and epoxy. Oh don't forget the beer.
Fellow-Ship [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

[Briguy]

For my transom build up project I used marine ply and epoxy. I could have saved myself about 50lbs by going with corecel or divinicel. That would be my advice.

[cSickNick]

I was getting confused from all the inside/outside transom repair talk.

Decided to compromise and replace through the top! Ply/Poly for another 20 years.

- Nick

I support the CSTR (Chain Saw Transom Removal) method!

[FELLOW-SHIP]

HA J T
On most cut outs transoms plugs that the boat manufacturers show off at boat shows. They have made the outer wall and the inner wall of the transom glass thicker that the traditional ¼” thick. I would build up the transom glass after you remove the plywood by adding 1 to 3 layers of glass to the inside side of the wall to build it up to approx 3/8” I would also do the same to the inside skin after you put the lamination back in. That way you have more glass on both sides of the lamination for screws and for washers to hold on to. As for through hull fittings you can coat the hole with epoxy to water seal the hole before you put through hull fittings on. As for the trim tabs I would think 3/8” glass would be enough but if you want wood try epoxying a small piece of plywood to the transom wall where the trim tabs connect and then cut some of the lamination core material out of the 8’ sheet for it to match the small piece of wood you laminated in. That will help your trim tabs sheet metal screws get a better bite.
Fellow-Ship [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[JT]

I thought the inside was the way to go, just seen alot of people (on-line) going from the outer thought maybe I was doing all that glassing for nothing, but from the replies, the outer is not as strong, Now with the divincell or anything other than ply, how do you put the garboard drain, bennetts, and the bracket and any other non-thru bolt pieces?? Doesn't seem like it would catch into foam and glass?? Putting twin 140s Suz on a bracket also?? Thank you all for the help!

[RingLeader]

This is the best way to approach a transom job. From the extreme inside of the hull! Get rid of the floor, the inner liner sides, and anything else that looks at you funny!


Expect the absolute worst. If your transom is rotten, you'll proabably have a rotten stringer or two as well.

[ July 17, 2003, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: RingLeader ]

[abl1111]

I just finished installing a transom, from the inside, on my 23 Tsunami. It is a job - but one easily accomplished with some pre-thought, research and prep work not too bad.

I have someone working w/ me who knows his stuff and after seeing how it is done, I see that it is fairly straightforward.

You have to decide where to draw the line in terms of how far you want to go. For example, the subfloor where my fuel tank sits is 90% solid - there is a spot on the aft end where it is a 'little soft'. Structurally, it's sound. I am not going to worry about it, someone else might see that as unacceptable and rip out the whole area and re-do it. I look at as - " it ain't going anywhere ! " But, if something is not right to my standards ( which are exceptionally high ), I'll fix it.

So, figure out what needs to be done to your satisfaction, then plan it out, ask questions, and like NIKE says - "Just Do It".

Taking the first steps are the hardest... Good luck !