Fishbox Siliconed Shut :-(

[gman1001]

Previous owner siliconed the rear deck fishbox shut on my 1989 18'. I never found out why.

I scraped and picked as much of the white rubbery sealant out but still can't open the compartment.

I tried removing the black plastic handle so I could lift using more force. No luck. WIth the black plastic handle gone I can see in the there, it is dry, he must have put a plug on the drain from the inside.

Any thoughts on a way to get this thing open? Maybe some sort of solvent to soak around the edges?

Tx!

[JohnB]

Slow steady presure.
Put something in the hole where the handle was, then come up with some type of worm/threaded rod, and slowly put pressure on it, tighten it up morning and evening, give it a couple days, it will pop.

[joshmon71]

Might be 5200 or the like. Some of that orange off cleaner solution can help break the bond as well. They do make a special pricey solvent, but it smells a lot and works like the goo gone orange smelling stuff. Some sparing and judicious use of a heat gun might help as well. Along with that constant pressure.

[CaptMick]

If it is 5200 I think laquor thinner may work to help break it up. One of the common chemicals used to clean up caulk and paint does not work with 5200. Might be on the label of the 5200.

Slow steady pressure is a great way to go. I have freed up deck plates that were 5200'd in using an engine lift. Actually had one where the boat was lifting off the trailer before the stuff let go.

[ReelToy]

Had a outboard bracket on 26 foot that was held with 5200. We picked up the boat at transom off the trailer. We left psi on it and cut it with piano wire actually fishing wire.

[natchalkley]

cut some wedges out of wood or some cedar shingles. start it with a flat bar if you can and just be gentle and tap them in a little bit at a time. try and start from a corner. constant pressure on a small area should pop it without too much trouble. be gentle and take it slow... dont want to crack the hatch.

[BigLew]

I have had some decent luck using constant pressure lifting/parting it in conjunction with some heat from a hot air gun to soften it up some. The problem then comes is how to get the remaining 5200 off the surfaces. Again heat and a sharpened putty knife works pretty well, but is tedious. Just make sure you round over the corners of the putty knife so that the square corner doesn't dig into the glass.

My attitude regarding 5200 differs from many I have known that use it. I consider it a last resort product vs. a first or second. The reason is that in too many cases it is stronger than the substrates that it is applied to, meaning that you are as likely to damage the substrate as part the 5200! I use it only when I have to and when I am pretty sure that I will NEVER wish to take it apart. Just my 2 cents.