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#1
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I currently have a 2003 150 Merc. saltwater series efi on an armstrong bracket (enclosed transom). Currently my deck is not self-bailing and that is my main concern as I fish offshore often. My batteries are under my console, so there is not much weight to move forward. My scuppers go straight out through the transom. I am debating on getting a hermco flotation bracket (maybe one for twins) in order to capitalize on the aft flotation benefits. I am also debating on getting a four stroke while I do this reconfigure as well. Any advice, suggestions, concerns, experience about the flotation bracket, what four stroke to get, weight distribution, re routing the scuppers.
Thanks in advance! |
#2
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Edit: just saw where u said armstrong bracket, there is the extra 120 lbs that is sinking you. Missed that the first time reading it. The flotation bracket makes a ton of difference. I left the plug out of mine and it made the boat sit 2" lower in the rear. Change the bracket and keep the motor or sell it to me. I love the 2.5 mercurys. Best outboard ever made!
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Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
#3
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There are a couple of other issues to consider. If your MA is really a '76 model, it should already have the raised deck, which Potter incorporated about 74 or '75. The factory used closed cell foam, so if it's never been apart, the wet foam scenario is not likely, although a wet transom would certainly add weight where it's least desired. I'm not that familiar with the MA's, but I thought ALL the Potter models had the vertical scuppers running out the bottom, so if your scuppers run out the transom, maybe the deck was replaced with plywood instead of the original 1/2" balsa core, which would have added a bunch of weight. And maybe the foam was replaced with open cell foam, which could indeed hold water. However, use of the Raybud ping-pong ball check valves on the transom scuppers might be a simple near term solution! If you go to all the trouble of changing the bracket, you might also consider moving the whole console, batteries and gas tank further forward, as that will also correct your basic CG problem and improve the ride, which more flotation will not do! If you've never run an original 20 with a 300 lb motor on it, you won't believe how well these boats ride when they are balanced "as designed"!
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#4
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All read is this! You know what you've got to do . . . 23 seacraft . . . It's time to move up. BTW - That 2.5L 150 (which is a stronger motor than my 2.4L 175hp) will push a 23 just fine with a 15p prop especially if you run light.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg7cdv1w1vE |
#5
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Agreed big shrimpin,a friend just installed a new style single Yamaha f200 on an early 23 center, and was very happy on the results.15" prop. its a runner, no problems,happy with performance.
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#6
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I don't know where my mind was yesterday. My boat is a 1971 SF. I may also be in the market for a Potter 23' SF though, depending on what I decide to do with my 20'.
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#7
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A yamaha f200 on a 23' would be ideal!
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#8
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Do it . . . you'll never look back with regret.
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#9
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Gotta find the right one in my price range. It may take a while as I'm not looking to break the bank!
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#10
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1971 sf, would have the lower floor and drain out the back not the floor (I have a 71 sf). Quad stringers with out foam, not the big foam filled boxes so no wet foam issues.
23' sf is a big bote compared to 20' for sure. Perfect for runs in the big pond if u go out more than 3 miles offshore.
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Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
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