#11
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no plywood for me ... ill check out the foam... but was thinking I would need something more substantial to hold screws..... so I may use coosa in these places ...
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80 23 SCEPTRE TWIN 135 MERC OPTIS 75 20 Master Angler 115 Mariner Tower of Power RUSTY PARKER http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...eyemailtag.jpg |
#12
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Coosa will work well . . . those bluewater panels are sold in 20- and 26-pounds lbs densities and will hold a screw just fine.
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#13
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Good grief daddy, how can I use my swing set now ?
Some dad you are.... Next thing you know you will be charged with child abuse ! Great idea for an "A" frame ... Good luck with the recore !
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See ya, Ken © |
#14
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Quote:
coosa/Penske board will not hold a screw - there's a specific technique required,when using fasteners with composites.i've described that technique,in detail quite a few times... composites,require thru bolting and sleeving... when blind,or self tapping fasteners are needed : determine thickness - use a small piece of hosing over the drill bit - this will prevent drilling thru.drill the hole - avoid drilling through ! chuck up a sharpened allen bit,slide it in and remove some of the coring - fill the area with a thickened epoxy - I like west system,mixed with 403 adhesive additive.after the area kicks,locate where the fastener needs to be - use it this way: you want to use a 1/4-20 machine screw ? drill the hole 3/16" - put a dab of 3m 5200 over the hole and run the screw in with a screw gun - this will actually tap the epoxy.need to remove the screw ? back it out with a screw gun... using self tapping fasteners with composites,without following that technique,the fastener will fail and become loose - the composite is brittle,vibration will cause it to fracture,making the screw hole loose - inexperienced individuals will use a larger screw - only to make the hole bigger ! you see this occurring on a bunch of foam cored boats - one manufacture used those stainless steel "toggle" style bolts to hold their T-tops onto the divinycell cored deck - I've repaired those failed fasteners,on more than 3 occasions.toggle style bolts will fail !
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do not let common sense get in your way |
#15
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I have used solid plugs of fiberglass in the layup when I knew where I was going to be putting a threaded attachment or if I was going to have a lot of compressive load like a through bolt. I used solid round fiberglass rod from these guys: http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-rod.htm , cut it to the same length as my core material thickness, bored a hole with a hole saw to the right diameter (I used 1" but they have up to 1.5") and epoxied it into the core. Then did the whole layup. Seems to work well - FG plugs can even be tapped/threaded (but not as strong as threading into good metal).
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#16
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In my experience there's a big difference b/w 26lb coosa and 5lb divinycell in holding fasteners. I've never had an issue with skinned coosa and screws backing out or not holding, but pelican's the professional. You will probably never put any screws into the cap's core to hold anything except maybe a bow light . . . which may or may not even touch the core.
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#17
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i may just be thru bolting in the areas i need the strength... i will want my rod holders to handle deep dropping so i want as solid as possible... lights and cleats will all be pop up....
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80 23 SCEPTRE TWIN 135 MERC OPTIS 75 20 Master Angler 115 Mariner Tower of Power RUSTY PARKER http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...eyemailtag.jpg |
#18
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Bad Dad indeed...especially when I left the fuel tank hanging on their swing set all day a few months ago!
Opened up the Cap this weekend to see what I was dealing with...the bow core was balsa core the rod holders are plywood. Bow area with inner skin removed. Bow inner skin with balsa core stuck to it Close up of balsa core and rotted balsa Rod holder core rotten plywood
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Moesly 1969 20 CC & Potter 1978 23 CC (23 in storage awaiting rebuild) |
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