18...and I like it

[steel686]

So I figured I needed an anthem for this project to get me through some of the low points. I have been absorbing information for the past few years and got my inspiration reading Strick's masterpiece (several times, thankfully while I could still see the pictures). The talent and passion on this site is amazing.

Let me back up for a minute. I bought the hull back in 1992 and can't see ever selling it. There have been a few re-powers and a sound but minimal 25" transom conversion. The boat bails pretty well with ball scuppers and I wanted to keep it as original as possible. I decided to replace the DF140 after 15 years and thought I would do the transom right and carve out the livewell to compensate for the extra weight of another 400 lb motor. I stripped the console, removed an expired aluminum tank and cut the liner out behind the console. As referenced in a few recent 18 posts, my liner popped loose easily and I realized the whole mid-section with the coffin box was loose as well. This was last April when the snow was gone. There is a moment when you realize that your boat won't see the water for Independence Day... or Labor Day. So back to Alice Cooper, "I'm in the middle without any plan."

In the meantime, finished a basement, sold a house, moved, etc.. The scope is now removing and re-coring the liner to a point just behind the casting platform, coring sides
refinishing console for new gauges, cut/fill/raise stringers, and a paint job. The 1.5" Airex transom went in on Saturday. The hatches, liner, and hull sides are going to be Divinycell. I'm using epoxy for everything.

I hope to ask for your help on layup sequence, reinforcement, materials, etc. if I can't pull it from memory. And if anyone can tell me how to manage iPhone pictures it would be greatly appreciated.

[uncleboo]

Deja Vu!!! Try rotating the phone clockwise a quarter turn. All of my pics taken with the shutter button at the bottom came out as yours did. Rotate counter clockwise and it will be upside down. Ask me how I know.

[steel686]

Appreciate it! Don't want to get off on the wrong foot with NoBones.

[DonV]

Man don't worry about that NoBones guy!!! He's just a sweet pussy cat!!

[NoBones]

Originally Posted by steel686

Appreciate it! Don't want to get off on the wrong foot with NoBones.

Your good....

Rule #1 Post early in the day !
Rule #2 Do not Post after happy hour, say 8 PM ish you risk being torn
apart if my mood is not good..

Other than that we have no problem..

Good luck with your re-do.. In the end it will be well worth the effort..

Hey Don, The "pussy cat" comment is going to cost you at the gathering.

[Capt Chuck]

Originally Posted by steel686

Don't want to get off on the wrong foot with NoBones.

You better be sweating the load that Spidercrab doesn't jump on your ass !

[steel686]

Thanks for the heads up Chuck. Now I am worried.

I just read your post about the center stringer being non-supportive. Mine is a 2x4 that probably weighs 6 times it's dry weight and is a nice mahogany brown. I had planned to dig it out and use my leftover 1.5" Airex to replace it as I do the stringers. If the 1/2 PVC is just as effective I should do that and not waste the money. I figured I would tie into the knee made up out of that stock. Any thoughts?

[steel686]

I know I have seen the original transom layup discussed a number of times but I'm wondering if someone could check in on some specifics. Where my new transom core is at 26.5" from the keel and the original skin is at 20", what is the best sequence for infilling the 1/4" void in that 24" x 6.5" section? I have beveled back the skin beyond but should I just infill 4 or 5 l small layers to match exterior skin thickness and then wrap the full layers of 1708 through the cutout? Also, is two layers of 1708 adequate for the interior skin of my new core? Assuming 2" tab for first layer then 4" for second layer on to hull sides. Planning to clean up the bevel more beforehand and buildup in one shot if possible.

[KNZ911]

My recommendation would be to match the outside skin thickness. 1/4-3/16 thick inside glass. Remember, the glass is the strength, the core is compression. Thats what I will be doing anyways. As for the outside, I would fill in just shy of the 1/4" with glass (wet on wet). Leaving room for fairing compound / gelcote.

[erebus]

FYI:
Approx six layers of 1708 will get you around a 1/4 inch thick (with approx .41 of a gallon of resin).

Love this calculator at fiberglassupply.com:
Knit Laminate Calculator