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#181
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I just let gelcoat shaver go for $475.00. Had I realized it may have been needed here I would have posted it on the for sale forum.
Strick, you are putting it to that hull. That is impressive work. I looked at your photos of the exterior gelcoat removing. I sympathize. I did the same thing to a '68 13' Whaler. I can tell you from experience, remove it all. No matter what you do if you don't take it to bare fiberglass the crazing in the gelcoat will come through. I'm sure you already know this. Keep it up it looks great. Me, I'm adding a bedroom and bath to accomodate my first papoose. |
#182
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STRICK
I didn't start a new thread because after reading this one - you are the person I need to talk to. I have a 1974 23 CC I/O that I need to restore. I know some stuff and I have friends who know a lot more but first and foremost---- How do you get the innerliner and cap off without sawing the thing to death. I've removed the rub rail (about a half million screws) only to find another half million or so holding everything to the the hull - AND- it appears to be just about bonded together with 5250 or some other absurdly strong and dense silicone adhesive. So first step - how do I break it up like you did to the 20 in the pictures at the top of this thread. ANy info will be very appreciated BOB - Patchogue, NY
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RWM |
#183
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Forgive me, but you should start by explaining why you would want to take the cap off a 23'CC first.
Paul- BayShore,NY |
#184
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Because I want to start at the bottom of the boat - I want to strip it down in the same way that Strick did with the 20. The boat needs work right down to the bottom. I'm pulling the engine - replacing the tank, adding some plumbing - plenty of things for which I need to get to a bare boat starting point - if you can help with advice I'd appreciate it. My friends and I can do glass work, fabrication of parts as we need them, cosmetic and finish work, engine and electrical work etc. I just can't get the darn thing apart
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RWM |
#185
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![]() To gain access to the bilge/stringer system most here have simply cut out the floor. That should give you all the access you need. If I was redoing a 23 thats the way I'd do it. The only reason I completely tore my boat apart was because I did not like the two piece construction. I gotta have toe space. There is a guy "Bonefish" who is doing a great job on his 23cc check it out. http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...=&Number=38534 strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#186
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Strick - How was fishing? I thought you were going to the shack tonight.
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#187
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beautiful day...no fish...had enough...will work on the 20 today. see you when you get here.
strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#188
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Strick
Thanks for the info - that would certainly be a lot easier but I'm worried about sonething. I've owned 2 cc's - a Potter 18 and a later 20. Both were solid boats but of course the Potter was much tougher. I know this is no way to measure the strength of a boat but for the heck of it I've always pounded the side of a boat - when I hit the side of this one (both sides actually) the boat sounded hollow and something was ratteling. I'm afraid something has broken loose oris actually separated or something - have you ever had that experiance and do you think it's something to dig into? Thanks By the way if you want to see a little one (not a SeaCraft) that me and my friends just finished doing minor hull repairs and cosmetic work on got to Noreast.com, then go to "interactive/discussion boards (dropdowns) then party boats and finally look at the thread marlin vi princess Thanks again
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RWM |
#189
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Thats a nice looking party boat. Plenty of walk around room on that thing. ON the 23's there is space (couple inches) between the liner and hull. That is why it sounds hollow. The cap, hull, and liner are screwed together on the top from the outside. Rub rail goes over the screws. On the Potter built boats the liner is bonded to the tops of the stringers (very wide stringers) with cabosil. That is were you will have problems breaking it free. Not that is undo able but it will be difficult. I was able to break my liner free but I had to do some cutting. On the 20 sf the liner is part of the transom and is bonded wiht cabosil so it would have been in possible to break that apart. So I cut the liner in front of the transom. We then used a come along and lifted the liner out. We actually lifted the boat off the trailer trying to break it free.
To answer your question yes I would try to get to the bottom of what the sound is that you hear but I would try first without removing the liner. I dug out an old thread were a guy called "Salvagefirst" actually did what you are talking about (removing the cap and liner) The pic's are gone now. Finster posted the pics for him so maybe you could pm Finster and see if he still has the pics. Salvagefirsts boat was a tracker boat and his liner was not bonded to the transom and he said it came apart without too much difficulty. Sorry to ramble. Hope I helped some. http://www.classicseacraft.com/forum...3&Number=25965 strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#190
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PF - Have you done a 23 - if so please PM me with a phone number so I can speak to you
Thanks
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RWM |
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