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#11
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Nick,
Don is correct. I replaced one of those goofy simulated wood grain panels on my Grady with some black Rowmark engraving stock. The original toggle switches and separate indicator lights were replaced with illuminated rocker switches. All circuits are fused. My implementation was more involved as the panel also contained all of my gauges. I will try to post pics or a link to the project tonight for you. My ISP completely screwed my website and I haven't had the time to fix it yet. It's really not that difficult, just a bit time consuming. The wiring was tedious as each wire is custom sized and all connectors were crimped then sealed with heat shrink. There's only one thing I would do differently if I had to do it again. When I did the heat shrink over the female spade connectors, I did not place it over the entire connector, just over where the wire got crimped. It's not a big deal, but covering the whole thing would protect it a bit better. I thought about using a pre-made panel, but it just wasn't right for my application. I am extremely happy with the way it turned out and I've gotten many compliments. I finished my second panel a few months ago on my brother's 19 Grady and I should be doing a third this winter for a 29' Proline. I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. I'm not gonna take credit for the Rowmark engraving stock. I got that idea from that Mako guy. Ring-something.... [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
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Brian 1981 Mako 17 |
#12
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In the not to distant future I will be starting my wiring. I've always enjoyed doing that part of the job and pride myself on doing clean installs. I think I'm going to add a new deal for me when doing the wiring.
You can get good quality clear heatshrink tubing from these folks. http://bestboatwire.com/ Use the computer and note pad to make labels for the wiring. This will add more time to the job, but there is a hell'va lot of wire going in this boat. |
#13
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Here you go Nick.... [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
http://cablespeed.com/~briandm/projects/project4.htm
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Brian 1981 Mako 17 |
#14
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Thanks guys!
Brian great job! That helps alot. I will get a pic of my helm area for suggestions. It is not a large area, so will need suggestions on how to fit and layout. It is slightly diff than Catman posted, but close ... thanks Catman. It will probably be pushed to a winter project, but need to get a plan together. Thanks alot guys ..... i bet it is helping others too! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] - Nick |
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Nick,
When you get a chance, post some pics of of the helm as well as the cabin-side of the bulkhead behind the helm. I've got an idea rattling around in my somewhat empty head.... [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
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Brian 1981 Mako 17 |
#16
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Here is a few pics, lets see what you can do ... [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
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#17
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You got me on this one. You have some nice electronics there.HeHe Same one's that are going in mine. That rake of the windshield keeps you from being able to build a pod.
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#18
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Nick,
Can you mount the new switch panel where the VHF is currently? If so, you could relocate the VHF to just inside the cabin door and run a remote speaker to the dash. |
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OUCH.... you're right. There ain't much room there.
My preference is to not have to reach around anything to get to switches so I would personally not put them behind or under the steering wheel. What I'm thinking is to rearrange the entire gauge panel and concentrate the gauges to the port side, leaving the stbd. side open for switches. Also, since real estate is so limited on the panel itself, don't worry about putting your fuse holders there. Install a fuse panel on the bulkhead inside the cabin. Can you take a shot looking straight down on the instrument panel so I can see how large it is? Also, if you get me some dimensions, I can try to lay something out for you. I'll post a few pics of the helm I did for my brother's boat this weekend. It's original configuration was very similar to yours so you might be able to get some ideas from it. We'll get you straightened out. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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Brian 1981 Mako 17 |
#20
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I know you guys will come up with something, just keep the cost down. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Scott, your suggestion would work. The 8 switch/fuse panel will fit in that space. I was planning to get an additional VHF to mount in the cabin, so i could run a remote mic to the helm area. This would be fairly simple. Maybe not the best to reach through the wheel, but i could layout the switches with less use in the steering area and others more used outside of the wheel. I need to get a new guage panel, so i should re-layout for additional switches/fuses anyway. Here is a closer pic, i will take some measurements tonight; ![]() Brian, when you mention fuse panel on the inside, do you mean "on" the hinged cover or "inside" the hinged cover? If "on" could it be wired to still remove the hinged cover easily if needed to. If "inside", would that defeat the purpose of easy access to check or replace fuses when needed. Also, curious on using fuse panel versus push button breaker type. I was leaning towards push button breaker type. Thanks guys .... [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] - Nick |
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