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  #11  
Old 03-24-2016, 11:34 AM
bigeasy1 bigeasy1 is offline
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Originally Posted by Bushwacker View Post
Seems like we corresponded on this about a year ago, but you still don't have that thing sorted out?! I've used a roller trailer for over 30 years and I wouldn't have anything else! Trailer is 31 years old and still has original springs and axle, because I never have to dunk it in salt water! I often go out by myself, and with a powerwinch, it's a piece of cake to load regardless of cross winds, cross currents, etc. NoBones has similar experience with his roller trailer.

Can you post some pictures of your roller set up? Take a look at first picture of my trailer below . . . as soon and the center of hull touches and pushes down on the inner rollers, the outer rollers pivot up and contact the hull, so there is no way it can heal over at that point. The center rollers on aft cross member keep the boat centered for the first few feet but once those outer aft rollers go over the edge of the step between the outer and center panels, the rollers run right along the step and guide the boat perfectly every time, just like it's on rails.

I suspect you may be dunking the trailer too deep instead of winching boat on, so the rollers don't have a chance to "latch on" to the steps and guide boat on trailer. (Notice how dry my trailer is in the loading sequence below . . . only the tires get wet!) Or maybe your trailer doesn't have the EZ-Loader setup with counterbalanced rollers. If you can post a picture of the roller set up, maybe we can figure out the problem. One problem I had when I first got the trailer was that the EZ Loader system has so many degrees of freedom, that if boat isn't balanced and lists to one side in the water, it would tend to come on trailer the same way. But once I got the rollers adjusted correctly so the run right along the edge of the vertical outer step, that problem went away.

Next time I go out, I'll try to take someone along with a smart phone that can take a video of the loading sequence, and maybe that'll make it more obvious how the rollers guide the boat straight up on the trailer. Denny
Denny, you as well as the other members on this site are amazing.The information and knowledge you supply is beyond incredible.I hope you're doing well.

Yes,we did speak about this issue a bit over a year ago. **I have tried everything when it comes to roller placement and weight distribution.**I've tried dunking the trailer and floating the boat on**. I've tried just backing the trailer in partway and even hardly in the water**,I've tried adjusting the spread on the rollers in several different ways**. I've put tall guide ons placed near the stern end,and they work fine in keeping the boat from going off center but don't help in keeping the hull from listing severly to the side(mostly to port)**

I think what I'm dealing with are a few different problems with this trailer. I think that even though its rated as a 6,500 pound capacity it is a little to small. I also think it doesn't have enough rollers.
The arms on the rollers are not very long so I can't get the spread I need.Also the bend on arms that hold the rollers aren't high enough to clear the lips of the steps(panels).so even if I could get the rollers close enough to the lip the arms would dig into the hull.
I gave some thought as to trying larger diameter rollers but with the price. The trailer is a SHORELINE and oem parts are not available.
I thought about buying a new trailer,but I have literally only a 1/4 mile to the launch ramp, so laying out a few thousand dollars for a new trailer seems un realistic.Hopefully the bunks will help.

Thank you all for your help.
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2016, 11:34 AM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Kmoose like this?
Kind of but the v itself was adjustable in height. I think I'm going to like the new centering boards on new trailer. I'll get some pics today of my new set up. The trailer is a Rocket and I am very impressed with how well made the trailer is. The I beams are twice a big as the ones on my Continental. In fact, the reason I had to buy a new one is due to one of my I beams cracking. Certainly won't be an issue on this one.
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2016, 11:41 AM
TomParis TomParis is offline
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I have read that Rocket Trailers are very good, please post pics when you get a chance, thanks!
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2016, 04:39 PM
Capt Terry Capt Terry is offline
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Default Hitchhiker Trailer Still in Use

My dear friend, Bushwacker, is very fastidious and fond of the rollers on his trailer and I've observed that he loads Restless Lady easily by himself. In 1978 I took a different direction and purchased a tandem Hitchhiker for my 20' Seafari. I had almost lost a car a couple times due to how far into the water I had to back the original Seminole trailer with big tires on a single axle. The Hitchhiker was aluminum with carpet bunks, like a Float-on, but with a winch and skid pads for the keel. It has smaller wheels and the cross members are V-shaped to get the boat closer to the road. I quickly rebuilt it in 2000 when I decided at the last moment to take it to SC. The rebuild included new bunks which were a little tricky to get shaped right. Fortunately one of the original bunks wasn't too bad so measured from that to build the first one, from PT lumber. The PVC guide poles at the aft end with lights at the top help my wife drive the boat on the trailer in the dark. Still enjoying the trailer. Too bad they don't make them anymore!
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2016, 05:19 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Here are some pics of the new trailer. I ordered the trailer to fit a 26'-28' boat as to accommodate for the new project when it is finished. The trailer is 31' overall but the Tsunami fits it just fine and the added length helps not having to back in so far. I did upgrade to all stainless bolts, HD winch and 5500 lbs 6 lug axles. The torsion arms are massive and should be more forgiving as I bent one my Continental though they were a third the size. The only parts on the trailer that are not aluminum are the axles, winch stand and tongue beam. Everything else including cross supports, guides and bunk brackets are hd aluminum. The I beams are hd 8" as well. LED lighting was standard with a real aluminum tag bracket. And yes, no brakes at this time. Researching the best option if any as I have yet to find a set worth the duty cycle I have experienced in the past.
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  #16  
Old 03-24-2016, 05:24 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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6 lug 15 wheels
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2016, 05:26 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Giant torsion arms
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  #18  
Old 03-24-2016, 05:30 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Centering bunks with aluminum and stainless brackets
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  #19  
Old 03-24-2016, 05:42 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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I do agree with Denny on the value of an H roller trailer fit for the boat. Back in the day when boat ramps in the keys had straight drop offs you had no option for float ons. They certainly have their advantages but also have limitations for trailering larger boats and with cross currents or wind. For me and the ramps I use float on trailers are the fastest and most convienent option for me as I can load or unload in 30 seconds with no issue or assistance. My goal is to only get close enough to the dock drop a driver off or pick them up. Everyone else is on the boat when it goes in.

As far as maintenance goes I usually get a full 10 years on most everything accept tires and brakes. After that you are usually due for some hardware and maybe axles if they are not good quality or have not been maintained but for the most part the majority of the trailer should last longer than we will if taken care of.
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  #20  
Old 03-24-2016, 06:16 PM
TomParis TomParis is offline
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Very nice kmoose
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