18...and I like it

[steel686]

Thanks guys. I understand the logic and would like to do as much wet on wet as possible. I'm just trying to plan where I am not grinding through the strength of layers. It always comes back to the bigger/smaller first question. So if I clean up the taper on the outer skin, is it best to wrap full sheets of 1708 through and then fill in whats left of the void? It will take 6 layers in that area. Do I really need that much biax on the inner skin? I want to overbuild but I don't remember seeing that much in other threads.

I will also need to tie upper section of liner (7-8") around on to transom when that goes back in so don't want to create a hump. Probably overthinking but I want to feel confident I'm never tearing this one apart again.

Zach - I took your advice and created a big knee for under the motor well. Wish I had seen your 18 before you sold it.

[erebus]

The way I did mine was I bought some prefabricated 3/16 flat stock from mcmaster-carr, and used that for the infill area. Glued it in place with epoxy and a lot of clamps.
Then ground back both sides (old glass and new flatstock) to a bevel about 6-8" wide (3-4 inches into each side) then glassed the two substrates with strips of 1708, and epoxy putty for any voids.
I may have glassed over the whole thing with a layer or two as well. Dont really remember.
Then faired and finished.
The flat stock from mcmaster is ridiculously strong, and glasses well to the old material.
Believe I used epoxy for everything.

Originally Posted by steel686

Zach - I took your advice and created a big knee for under the motor well. Wish I had seen your 18 before you sold it.

Nice. Really helps distribute the force loads from the motor to more of the hull than just the transom.

[dirtwheelsfl]

On that notch fill piece... Just bevel about 6" all around it, pretty much down to the new core depth-wise. Then lam enough to bring it just about level (leave a bit for fairing compound/primer). Large to small on the glass... Take some visqueen and lay it over and trace that as a pattern

Inner skin: 4x1708 is about standard (1700 if epoxy). Do a nice 8-12" tab into the hull though. 2oz of resin wets out a sq foot of 1708 so you can gauge and not have much waste. Or weigh the glass and mix up the same amount of resin by volume. Keep that roller wet!

[steel686]

Great way to start a Monday! Trying not to be too much of a fanboy but Squid Lips should be required reading for anyone on this site. Alright, back to work.

[steel686]

Finally got a nice day up here on Saturday and I was so excited for this part that I forgot to rotate the phone. Forgive the mods. The transom is finally laminated with 4 layers of 1708. After that I replaced the last 6 feet of liner temporarily and stitched it back together at the cut line. The plan was to rebond the liner where it contacts the stringers so I cut ahead of the coffin and the installed a unistrut frame to lift the whole section. I have a recurring fear after reading a lot of threads where the sides spread during deck or coring work so I made a gage stick to index five spots along the hull. Probably overkill but want the liner to drop in with as little drama as possible when I rebond it. So I wheeled the hull under my 2x6 gantry and pulled it with a come-along. Stringers as I already new we’re not level and badly collapsed/cracked. It’s a lot more work but I can’t wait to see how much this will improve what was already a solid ride. It is mostly a 7/8” gap between mating surfaces so I plan to carve tops, dig out and replace foam, and level new tops more like 1/4” from bottom of liner. Will try to post more frequently.

[Capt Chuck]

With the cap off, you need to brace the hull sides from within or your cap will never fit back on correctly

[steel686]

Agreed. I have it braced in 5 locations. Will post an inside view now that the liner is out.

[steel686]

On the subject of coring the hull sides, I am planning to leave the bow/casting platform section attached and bring the scored Divinycell as far as I can reach. Obviously better to go all the way but would like to save that structure as is. Once the core is glued up, I thought I'd fill the scoring with a thinner cabosil mix, laminate one layer of 1708 with 4" overlap on bottom, pull the bracing, drop the liner back in dry and let the sides cure with the shoebox on. I figured its better to do this before carving the strength out of the existing stringers. Anyone see something I should do different?

[NoBones]

Originally Posted by steel686

Anyone see something I should do different?

Yep, Get a bigger shop/garage cause you will run out of room quick
with the project you are taking on !!

[steel686]

Not much to brag about but the sides have been cored and laminated. I dropped the liner back in and screwed it off while the skin cured and feel better about holding the shape. I carved off the top of the stringers and popped out some wet foam. It was odd that the port side came out in two pieces like an ice cube and the starboard side had to be chiseled out in small chunks. Anyway, cleaned up the inside and ground a bevel on remaining vertical glass to tie caps back in after pouring new foam. The rigging tube holes under the console have always bothered me where they fell under the flange. I reworked the console and shortened the plan for the tank so controls and hoses will run through the back of the coffin. I borrowed a detail from Strick's scupper detail and glassed new tubes to run through stringers. Also installed new limber tubes from fiberglass handle stock. Trying to pour foam in next two days and be able to patch miscellaneous stringer cutouts, cap with 3x 1708, and then wrap 2x 1708 onto bottom. Liner is almost completely de-cored and will glue up Divinycell and mounting pads for leanpost etc.