Need help mounting a bracket

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by bbh57

Curious as to how the motor bolts to bracket.

I noticed that as well the other day when looking at the picture. Odd how they did the ear the motor bolts to. Not common to build one that way in the industry. Most top bolts go all the way threw the bracket ear where as on this on it appears they all will be inside the bracket. Should be fine if built right and if the rear is thick enough but just different from what you normally see. Make sure you seal the bolt holes so you don't get water in the bracket chamber. Also if there is no drain on it I would add one unless you don't mind pumping the water out threw the hand hole.


Like mention by others, the AV plate should end up 3-4" above the hull bottom on most brackets. I have mine set at 4.5" but I am running a simi surfacing prop (rev-4 four blade). With a 3 blade I got some blow out on extreme turns at 4.5" but at the 3-4 range you should be fine. Also my set back was 22" where most are 24-36" back. That will change the height above the rear if yours is shorter/longer. On a seacraft 20 I would figure on 1.5-2" per 12" of set back you have on the bracket. If yours is shorter say like 18" you may only want to go 2" above the av plate. If 36" of set back you may want to go the full 4".


Mock up and measure 10 times and drill once. Most need more height if they mount by manufactures recommendations as you never hear many say their motor is too high. Most always end up adjusting up or running out of adjustment and needing more to raise higher. Most manufactures rather you be a little low and loose a little performance vs be to high and have blow out issues plus the seacraft hulls just tend to like the outboard a little high any how compared to other hulls.

[Topflitegraphics]

Originally Posted by Xcomunic8d

Hope this helps. Lots of useful info here.

Good luck!
http://www.dadmarine.com/25sgl.html


Ps. You may want to add aluminum bar stock on the bow side of transom for the bolts to pull up against and spread the load.

Sure does!! Thanks

[Topflitegraphics]

Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle

I noticed that as well the other day when looking at the picture. Odd how they did the ear the motor bolts to. Not common to build one that way in the industry. Most top bolts go all the way threw the bracket ear where as on this on it appears they all will be inside the bracket. Should be fine if built right and if the rear is thick enough but just different from what you normally see. Make sure you seal the bolt holes so you don't get water in the bracket chamber. Also if there is no drain on it I would add one unless you don't mind pumping the water out threw the hand hole.


Like mention by others, the AV plate should end up 3-4" above the hull bottom on most brackets. I have mine set at 4.5" but I am running a simi surfacing prop (rev-4 four blade). With a 3 blade I got some blow out on extreme turns at 4.5" but at the 3-4 range you should be fine. Also my set back was 22" where most are 24-36" back. That will change the height above the rear if yours is shorter/longer. On a seacraft 20 I would figure on 1.5-2" per 12" of set back you have on the bracket. If yours is shorter say like 18" you may only want to go 2" above the av plate. If 36" of set back you may want to go the full 4".


Mock up and measure 10 times and drill once. Most need more height if they mount by manufactures recommendations as you never hear many say their motor is too high. Most always end up adjusting up or running out of adjustment and needing more to raise higher. Most manufactures rather you be a little low and loose a little performance vs be to high and have blow out issues plus the seacraft hulls just tend to like the outboard a little high any how compared to other hulls.

Bolt holes go to the inside of the bracket. The material is 1/4" thick so it is plenty strong. Not sure why it was made this way but with the rolled edges and fully welded face it is a beast of a little bracket. It does have a drain as well. I plan on using plenty of 5200 when I install it on the boat and when I mount the engine on it as well.

Getting closer to pulling the trigger on an engine. Got my eyes on (3) different Suzuki DF140's If my biggest customer pays me enough this week, I may grab one this weekend...

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by Topflitegraphics

Bolt holes go to the inside of the bracket. The material is 1/4" thick so it is plenty strong. Not sure why it was made this way but with the rolled edges and fully welded face it is a beast of a little bracket. It does have a drain as well. I plan on using plenty of 5200 when I install it on the boat and when I mount the engine on it as well.

Getting closer to pulling the trigger on an engine. Got my eyes on (3) different Suzuki DF140's If my biggest customer pays me enough this week, I may grab one this weekend...

May want to use 4200 if you ever want to remove it one day. The 5200 makes it hard to remove with out damage to the transom.


The Suzuki 140 is a good fit for these hulls, used they are reasonably priced cost wise and if you can find a newer low hour outboard it is a win win
A lot of newer models across several manufactures are getting lighter and lighter as the industry has made a move that direction

[erebus]

Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle

May want to use 4200 if you ever want to remove it one day.

This. ↑

[Topflitegraphics]

Originally Posted by erebus

This. ↑

Will do. Thanks for the advice