My $600.00 20' Seafari

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by bushwacker

john, that's a very valid concern, as i think the low transom sinks more outboard boats than any other single cause! I felt the same way on my first return from the bahamas during one stretch of ne winds with big following/breaking seas that i couldn't see over when standing at the helm! That's why i now have a bracket! Potter evidently had similar thoughts, because after the v-6 motors came out in the late 70's, he designed an add-on raised splashwell tub that was an option for the 20! (see pics below) capt. Terry has a very nice teak-trimmed version on his '76 seafari that he bought new.

A little over 3 years ago, forum members pianewman and jerry1 conspired to get don herman to pop a mold off an original tub that jerry provided! Suggest you send a pm to hermco to see if don still has that mold and can make one for you! Denny

As Bushwacker mentioned here is the splashwell I purchased from Potter (Seamark) awhile after I bought my Seafari in 1976. I added the teak to it to support a Coleman grill when at anchor and it also serves as temporary seat. The cutout in the teak needs to provide enough clearance for the outboard tilted up and a bit more in case the engine bounces on a road pothole.
Capt Terry

[Bushwacker]

Thanks, Terry, I was hoping you had a picture of your fancy splashwell! Your teak looks good! So it didn't have any teak on it when you got it? Seems like I've seen pictures a splashwell tub in a brochure that had teak cupholders built into it. Maybe that was a one-of-a-kind made just for the brochure! Denny

[Capt Chuck]

Same deal here before my transom enclose.
Used the engine well space as a rocket launcher

[bigeasy1]

Now why do some boat owners do a great job taking care of thier boat and do most things right,and then go and hack a few things up?

Here's a few more pics of my recently acquired Seafari.The boat is in exremely nice condition,and looks well cared for,but then one of the owners went and butchered uo the area where the steering cable exits the inner transom wall.It looks like they used an axe to make the hole.They also cut out a small piece of the stbd stringer where it meets the transom and let the foam get saturated and never glassed in the top surface of the stringer.
Inn fact the entire bilge area is a mess,nothing as far as cruicial areas are rotted,but they used cheap plywood for some of the work and that has rotted.
You would think that someone who went through the trouble and expense to have a new transom done,would take the same pains on the other details.
Looks like I have a little work to do.

I think the 150 outboard is toast so I'm going to keep my eyes open for a good used smaller motor,maybe something in the 100 to 115 hp range.Preferably a four stroke.Also have to do something about that low transom cut out.
I know that I'm not getting into a major restoration on this boat,but I want something reliable.

Anyone tell me if they think a 100-115 would perform well,and any pointers on what used four stokes to stay away from and which are good.I would go with a 2 stroke as well,but its easier to just skip the worry of trusting an automatic oil injection system.I'm an I/O guy so my outboard knowledge is limited,could use some help in that dept.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by bigeasy1

. . . but then one of the owners went and butchered uo the area where the steering cable exits the inner transom wall.It looks like they used an axe to make the hole.They also cut out a small piece of the stbd stringer where it meets the transom and let the foam get saturated and never glassed in the top surface of the stringer. . .

Anyone tell me if they think a 100-115 would perform well,and any pointers on what used four stokes to stay away from and which are good.I would go with a 2 stroke as well,but its easier to just skip the worry of trusting an automatic oil injection system.I'm an I/O guy so my outboard knowledge is limited,could use some help in that dept.

You're right John, original owner was probably very meticulous but a subsequent owner, maybe the one who installed that motor, must have been a real klutz! Those gouges in gelcoat look recent, so good thing you rescued that boat when you did!

No point in getting a full height splashwell tub until the splashwell itself is watertight! Most newer outboards have all the control cables, wiring harness and fuel lines going into one opening on the motor cowl, so it's easy to make a neat installation by running everything thru a watertight rigging tube. If the old steering cable is shot, I'd switch to hydraulic steering, so then you could replace that big cable with a couple of hydraulic hoses that are also easy to seal. I'd cover that big hole with a piece of 1/2" starboard or PVC board and then mount the rigging tube flange up high and near the transom so most of the lines going into it will be aft of the seat opening.

Regarding the stringers, your hull has the 4 narrow stringers, so what looks like a hole in the 7th pic is really just a cut through a layer of glass over the top over the 2 stbd stringers; the stringers themselves, which are only about 2" wide at the top, are completely intact! My boat didn't have any glass there; the space between the stringers was just filled to the top of the stringers with flotation foam and everything was covered with grey paint or gel coat. I cut out all the foam between the stringers under the stbd seat and found there was enough room to mount a 2nd battery between the stringers (see pic below; notice all my rigging is up behind the seat to keep area under the seat open.) Even with the 2nd battery there, there was still enough room between the batteries for 100' of line and my stern anchor. Although we cut out most of the splashwell when I had the transom filled in, I'd also recommend installing a watertight hatch in the bottom of the splashwell to provide access to all the space under there, where you can mount a bilge pump, Racor filter and trim tab pump.

As for motors, a 100-115 hp motor is plenty of power that will let you cruise at 20-25 mph, with a WOT in the low to mid-30's, and if it's relatively light, plane at about 12 mph. Lighter is definitely better. And I wouldn't be afraid of an oil injected 2-stroke, at least an E-TEC. They don't smoke and the oil pump is a solenoid controlled by the computer and appears to be very reliable. It has a couple sensors to warn of either low oil or no oil pulses. If the latter, it won't shut you down but will go into safe mode with a 1200 rpm limit.

[77SceptreOB]

Originally Posted by Capt Terry

As Bushwacker mentioned here is the splashwell I purchased from Potter (Seamark) awhile after I bought my Seafari in 1976. I added the teak to it to support a Coleman grill when at anchor and it also serves as temporary seat. The cutout in the teak needs to provide enough clearance for the outboard tilted up and a bit more in case the engine bounces on a road pothole.
Capt Terry

Attachment 10611

Wow, that's nice!

[FishStretcher]

Originally Posted by bigeasy1

Anyone tell me if they think a 100-115 would perform well,and any pointers on what used four stokes to stay away from and which are good.I would go with a 2 stroke as well,but its easier to just skip the worry of trusting an automatic oil injection system.I'm an I/O guy so my outboard knowledge is limited,could use some help in that dept.

I have a 2000 Yamaha F100. 20" shaft It's about 370 lbs.There is one on the cape with a 25" shaft on CL. They want too much, though.

I think the corrosion resistance is good. It doesn't like more than 15" pitch for the prop with a 4 blade. It has carbs, and you have to drain them if you don't run the boat with E10 gas.

They suffered from an accelerator pump that gives out. $130. That and too much pitch makes it bog. Mine isn't fixed, but with a 15" pitch prop, it's fine.

I'd do a timing belt and zincs as soon as you get it. Thermostat, too. My plug wires were iffy at 14 years old.

I can work on it, so I like it. Good mileage. Mine has 800 hours on it (at least) it was a Florida rental before I got it. I bet you get 34MPH at WOT. 5MPG cruise, and quiet.

I think the F90 is about the same thing. I think the later EFI models are nicer. Some Four stroke Merc 90s of this vintage have a Yamaha power head. I am biased against Merc corrosion resistance. But you are a lake guy, right?

[bigeasy1]

Seeing as the 150 Evinrude appears to be toast,I've been looking for some alternative with a little less weight,and maybe less hp.

I came across a 1972 1150 115hp tower of power Merc outboard.I'm not sure what the compression should be but the test was as listed below. "He claims"

Condition is fair for age. Comes with working tilt/trim. Compression - 130, 115, 130, 130, 135, 135.
Please note, you will not be able to just put this on your boat and run, but it will run with a little bit of work.
The guy wants 300.00 for it. he also says the carbs need cleaning or a rebuild. I hear these engines were pretty good.
What do you think.Is it worth sinking some money in this motor,(I'd have it done not diy) or do I look for something else.

The 150 Evinrude that came with the Seafari is still locked up.I've tried everything with no luck.Last try was a mixture of two stroke oil and deep creep,and WD40 rust penetrant.I filled the cylinders with it,and let it sit for three days.It still wont turn with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut.
The starter gear spins,but doesn't want to rise up to contact the teeth on the flywheel. The battery is fully charged.

Wow,I looked at some late model used E-Tecs but holy cow,talk about big bucks.If I go that route,I'll be doing what I planned on not doing,which is dumping a lot of money into this boat.

[Handful in NC]

Before you give up on the old Evinrude, try some Kroil penetrating oil.

[bigeasy1]

I'll give the Kroil a try.Any particular retailers that sell it?? Auto parts stores like NAPA maybe? or someone like McMaster Carr.?