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  #21  
Old 10-31-2020, 08:35 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Strick, interesting, when I looked at the thread they were all right side up. What were you seeing and if you have advice for what to do next time so I don't waste your time again?
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  #22  
Old 11-01-2020, 10:45 AM
strick strick is offline
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Hopefully they are still right side up? the photos on my desk top computer were sideways....hopefully I did not screw up your pictures...if you are looking at the thred from a phone and up loading from a phone things may appear load different... not a waste of time as I like helping but not screwing things up lol

strick
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2020, 10:17 AM
uncleboo uncleboo is offline
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I'm no expert, but, I think the gyro in the phone changes what is 'right side up' according to the angle of the phone.
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  #24  
Old 11-06-2020, 08:55 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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I will post some pictures in the next couple of days. So far I ground a 4" wide bevel on the outside of the motor notch and filled it in with 4 layers of 1708. I also added a layer of 1208 and 3 layers of 1700 along with 8" and 12" 1708 tabbing on the inside of the transom. I have the core cut and will be laminating it tomorrow.

So a couple of questions, I fought much to hard trying to get bubbles out where the 12" 1708 tape passes/drops off, the 8" 1708 tape. I have various bubble rollers including one that is football shaped, seemed that nothing that I did would get rid of the separation right where the tapes cross. if I work it to much then the tape would pull away from the corner where I laid a pretty sizable 3/4" to 1" cove filet. Anyone got a trick? Would love to learn something before I tab in the core.

On another subject, the boat is now water tight, in that the transom drain has been glassed over. My intention is to use Capt Chuck as a role model and put a garboard drain, with an extended handle straight down thru the bottom. Before I drill the hole, would love opinions on how the keel stringer is handled when adding a bracket? I was thinking of not running it back to the transom, but instead creating 2 taller stringers/knees on either side of the centerline, about 10"-12" apart. If I did that, then it would seem that the drain could go dead center about 10" in front of the transom. Sure would be nice to hose all the fiberglass dust off of the interior every once in a while. Thoughts/Suggestions?

Thanks,

Michael
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  #25  
Old 11-09-2020, 07:56 AM
uncleboo uncleboo is offline
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On my 18, I cut the keel member 4" from the front of the transom, glassed the end and cut a piece of the 1-1/2" baltek and glassed it at an angle from the keel member to the transom. drain is in the center.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1604922942

Don't have a picture of the brace in place.
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  #26  
Old 11-13-2020, 07:58 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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All right time for a photo update.

Transom is in
Added (1) 1208 and (3) 1700 to inside skin along with 8 & 12" 1708 tabbing.
Laminated 2 pieces of 3/4" marine ply and one 1/2" marine ply. Let it cure after applying neat epoxy to all inside faces and troweling on a cabisol, cotton flocking mixture with a 1/4" notch trowel. Squeezed it together with a 300 lb steel plate and screws and a coupe bags of concrete mix. When I cut the top curve the laminate looked solid with no gaps. I then a coated the back and sides of the core with neat epoxy and troweled on the cabosiol mix on the inside skin and back of the core. Pulled it all together with some long 24 and 30" clamps that I welded up along with a handful of 2x6x18" blocks inside and out, thru bolted with 1/2" rod.

Pulled fillets on the inside and added 8 &12" 1708 tabbing. Then laminated it with (1) 1208 and (4) 1700; wrapping 3 layers over the top and down the back staggered to 5".
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  #27  
Old 11-13-2020, 08:40 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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A few more...
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  #28  
Old 11-13-2020, 08:50 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Looking for input on the pros and cons of what to do next?

The major structural things remaining are; extending the liner back to meet the new shallower transom liner, the actual false transom/liner, the sole, the cap, and building and attaching the bracket.
I think I need to do the liner before the sole, since the sole will be tabbed to the liner. I am planning on raising the sole only to the extent that I will put the new one on top of the flange I will leave when I cut the old one.

So what are the pros and cons of doing the sole before or after the bracket?
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  #29  
Old 01-19-2021, 04:34 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Time for an update, making some progress.

Added a couple of knees to the new transom and got the stringers tied back in.
I'll pretty it up with another layer of glass when there are a couple of warm days down the line.

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Also, did a little fairing while the weather was still warm. And built the bones for the bracket mold.

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  #30  
Old 01-19-2021, 04:46 PM
take a potter take a potter is offline
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Got the mold for the bracket completed and started layup after clay, wax and 4 coats of PVA. The reliefs on the front /bottom are to give me some extra clearance for mounting transducers. Part came out of the mold fairly easy. The flat surfaces are looking really good. The corners need some work in a couple of places but all in all, very happy with my first molded part. Nothing stuck to the mold, most of the clay came out on the part, am now in the process of cleaning it up. Plan on moving it outside to wash off the PVA.

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Next up will be trimming the clamping board and then laying some more cloth on the clamping board and wrapping it around to the back. Right now there are only 4 layers in the inside of the clamping board.
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