Wiring Panel

[warthog5]

One panel is Waterproof and the other is water resistant.
In the common everyday world water get's sprayed at the dash to get the salt off of it at the end of the day.
The waterproof model say's it's perfect for a fltbridge with no cover. [I read that some where?] That was good enough for me. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Megabyte]

Don't know if this will help your cause or not, but here is a shot of my helm taken today...



Good luck!

[warthog5]

That's super clean Kevin. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Something that bug's the crap out of me is the way the door is hinged on cSickNick's boat.
The hinge's should be on the port side. The door has to stay shut all the time, but when you open it it is right in the way of the helm. [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

[Scott]

Nick
I apologize at the length of this
Are you concerned about waterproof to water resistant ??
Given your mounting location I would think either would be fine. If they were less protected as in a deck location or even some exposed center console application I would be more concerned.
Breakers over Fuses or vice versa I think are just personal preference. They both have pros and cons . In my experience it seems that all the fused switch panels I have seen are considered water “resistant” or “splash proof”. I’ve personally not had the best of luck with those fuse panels with corrosion and conduction problems (that too can be helped with a little Vaseline or your favorite conducting grease) The fuses were a mess on this boat such that a couple of the fuses were stuck in the receptacle and the push / pulls were green behind the dash but that’s another story.
Fuses you can replace cheap, easily and everyone has a “few” kicking around on the boat. Breakers can be too, but they are more expensive than a box of fuses but really shouldn’t need to be replaced (takes a little more time to replace too). Don’t forget most electronics have fuses within the unit itself.
Most larger boats have “house” circuit breaker panels… Not fuses…with remote panels up on the bridge or helm. I would assume it’s a space thing on smaller boats not to mention a cost issue.

Like warthog mentions …what about a remote breaker panel then water proof switches at the helm giving you more mounting options over the pre built panels ? Give you more wiggle room too

Both of those panels you list are said to be water resistant and for flybridge or open cockpit use

DC Water Resistant Fuse Panel-Slate Gray (8 Position)
PN: 8261
Features
• Designed for flybridge and open cockpit applications
• Water resistant
• Water resistant fuse holders accept commonly available AGC (Fast Acting) and MDL (Slow Blow) glass fuses
• Water resistant Contura switches

DC Water Resistant Circuit Breaker Panel-Black (8 Position)
PN: 8371
Features
• Designed for flybridge and open cockpit applications
• Water resistant
• Rated IP66 - "Use on Shipdecks"
I.P 66 4 Either indoor or outdoor use to provide a degree of protection against falling rain, splashing water and hose-directed water; undamaged by the formation of ice on the enclosure. Hosedown, corrosion test, icing, dust

• Ignition protected - safe for installation aboard gasoline powered boats
• Push Button circuit breaker with waterproof boot
• Water resistant Contura switches
NOTE: Water resistant panel labels are not backlightable

The only panel I have ever seen called WATER PROOF was a circuit breaker panel by Paneltronics. However they are expensive. I’ve talked with an engineer down at Paneltronics and they can build a custom panel to your dimension/color etc etc…

Paneltronics waterproof circuit breaker panel

The Paneltronics breaker panel claims to be water proof, on – off indicator lights and its also backlit ( don’t know if that matters to you). The Paneltronics uses booted toggles to help achieve the waterproof claim. It seems as though the “contura” type switch cannot be waterproofed?? (even thought some catalogues list them as such).

This one may be way more than you need, but I think it would be my choice in a real wet location

I like the style of the contura switch ….The boats we have had or that I’ve worked on have had the booted switches, rockers and the push/pulls …. The push/pulls and rockers never seemed to last. The booted switches however never had to be replaced. Even the engine on/off switch and the ignition switch were booted toggles. In fact the Viking had small one and two switch Paneltronics in the cockpit for saltwater and freshwater wash downs, cockpit lights and the Glendinning shore power storage system. The cockpit saw tons of salt and fresh water and the switches never had problems.

Warthog …That wire you list above in that link …How do you like it ?? and how does it compare to Anchor (besides price ) ??

[warthog5]

I was asked the same thing in another forum.
The stuff I got on the only order that I made was GREAT.
Compairing it to Anchor? I would say if you took some acetone and wiped the names off of the insulation, there's no way you could tell a diffrence. I'm planning on a big order for BestBoatWire.com. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
http://bestboatwire.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=23

[rockdoc]

cSickNick-

What did you end up doing for the wiring? I was fixing up my new 1970 Seafari yesterday, and the backside of the console is a MESS! typical old boat throw some wires in there for this, and that, for 34 years.....yikes! I'm going to totally redo mine this winter.

Another question- what can you tell me about that arch/hardtop (?) on your Seafari? Looks great!

Steve

[nestorpr]

I'm interested in the radar arch also, how about some pictures and dimensions if you don't mind?

[cSickNick]

Guys,

I have my wiring project planned to "design/layout" during the winter and start to "rewire" early ... early next spring. That's the plan, with other questions along the way.

This post was a great help and i have been talking to other boaters about likes/dislikes of their electronics layout.

I am also trying to grasp what's new with future electronics stuff, so i can allow space or wiring chases for them. Gotta love the electronic stuff! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

As for the hardtop, Don at PipeDreamMarine built it!
Search the site, there should be a informative post on it.

BTW: I am very pleased with it!! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[cSickNick]

Well, after giving it plenty of thought over this winter, I made my decision this spring. I will admit this setup "may" be a little overkill, but after much thought and a few too many shot's of OUZO, I decide that I wanted 2 isolated screens with the most redundancy in radar/chartplotter/fishfinder. Since I had already have a Furuno 7" NavNet, below is the main stuff in what I did;

- Sold my 1850WF on Ebay, turned the $$ in for a new 7" VX2 NavNet
- Installed an Airmar M260 1KW transducer in-hull
- Installed 2 BBWGPS antenna's for each NavNet on the hardtop
- Installed 2 BBFF1 sounders one set at 1KW for the M260, one set at 600W for the P66 transom mount
- Purchased a fiberglass shallow angled E-box from FASTECH
- Made a new dash panel out of starboard
- Installed an Icom 402 and Polyplanar MRD-60 with MA905 speakers in E-box
- Installed Icom command mic and Polyplanar remote to dash
- Made a new glove box cover out of Starboard with flush latch
- Installed BlueSeas #8261 fuse/switch panel
- Installed 2 Blue Seas 6 circuit ST blade fuse blocks #5025
- rewire, rewire ….. Rewire …

I have low hours running this setup over the last 2 weekends, and so far I really like what seems to be endless flexibility of the displays. I was aware that there could or would be interferences with running both sounders at the same time. They do interfere, at times, but I wired them to the switch panel so it can shut one off. The M260 seems to perform well(as it should for the $) it can hold bottom at WOT. I also stuffed the wiring to one side the inside cabin helm box on purpose, in case an AP pump decides to find a home in there also.

Here is a few pics, oh …. Thanks to Jim at BOE for the great prices and service!

Before;

After;






[img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[nestorpr]

Good job! Looks a lot neater now, mine looks pretty good also but I'll make it even better by installing a white Paneltronics 6 switch ckt/brkr panel soon. It will probably go on the left side of the pilot's bulkhead. If I may ask, how much was the arch from Pipedreams?